PHYSICAL CHARACTERIZATION AND SUNSCREEN ACTIVITY OF SEA BUCKTHORN OIL CREAM WITH TWEEN 80 AND SPAN 80 VARIATIONS

This study aimed to evaluate the physical properties and in vitro sunscreen activity (SPF) of sea buckthorn oil cream formulated with varying ratios of Tween 80 and Span 80. Sunscreen products derived from natural sources, such as sea buckthorn oil (Hippophae rhamnoides L.), offer photoprotection through UV-B absorption and antioxidant activity from bioactive carotenoids and polyphenols, serving as safer alternatives to synthetic UV filters. Four cream formulations (F1–F4) containing 7% sea buckthorn oil and varied Tween 80:Span 80 ratios (3:1, 2:1, 1:2, and 1:3) were prepared using the melting method and analyzed for physical stability (organoleptic, homogeneity, pH, spreadability, adhesion, viscosity) and SPF values via UV-Vis spectrophotometry using the Mansur equation. All formulations produced homogeneous, deep-yellow creams with safe skin pH (6.65–6.80), acceptable spreadability (4.50–5.10 cm), and consistent viscosity (29–54.66 dPas). Adhesion significantly varied (1.37–2.70 s, ). Spectrophotometric testing demonstrated strong photoprotective activity across formulations, with Formula 1 (3:1 ratio) achieving the highest SPF value of (ultra protection) due to enhanced release of active chromophores from the hydrophilic matrix. In conclusion, sea buckthorn oil cream formulated with a 3:1 Tween 80:Span 80 ratio provides an effective natural sunscreen with favorable physical characteristics.