Dye Analysis of 20th Century Macno Textiles from the Toropalca Region of Bolivia

Historical textiles from the Andean Altiplano provide key evidence for technological practice and social organization. This study investigates whether 20th century macno textiles from the Toropalca region of Bolivia retain traditional dyeing practices—particularly the use of cochineal—and explores their significance as markers of identity, possibly dating back to Inka times. Forty-four yarn samples from twenty-three garments were analyzed for dye identification, and a subset of twenty-four of these samples were further assessed for mordant use and colorimetry. The results show that the red, maroon, and purple colors of most ground weaves are derived from natural cochineal, while at the same time, synthetic dyes are widely present in non-ground components of these textiles, even occasionally for red tones. These findings indicate a selective persistence of natural dyeing practices into the 20th century, with cochineal retained for culturally significant color fields perhaps as markers of identity, irrespective of a community’s access to markets or supply of modern dyes, while synthetic dyes were adopted elsewhere. This work suggests that dye choices reflect enduring conventions, perhaps by an Inka resettlement community.