Acmella Oleracea in Herbal Cosmeceuticals: A Comprehensive Review

Acmella oleracea (L.) R.K. Jansen commonly known as paracress is an herbal drug belonging to Asteraceae family. Its constituents like spilanthol (an N-alkylamide) are responsible for various biological activities. Acmella oleracea also contains other phytoconstituents like phenolic compounds, flavonoids, terpenoids which might add on additional skin benefiting properties. Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkle, skin-firming, and antimicrobial activities are reported so far. Neuro- relaxing effects of spilanthol might play a major role in the diminishing of expression lines and other bioactive compounds might help in handling the oxidative stress and inflammatory responses generated on the skin. Creams, emulsions, serums, emulgels, nanoemulsions and nanoemulsion based hydrogels are few topical delivery approaches studied to date for enhanced stability of the plant extract formulation. Standardization, quality control, safety assessment and clinical evidence so far, are also considered prior to its cosmetic application. There is a need for further controlled clinical studies to ensure long term safety and efficacy of this botanical. Purpose of this review article is to discuss the botanical and phytochemical characteristics of Acmella oleracea, skin benefiting mechanisms of action, cosmetical usage, standardization approaches, topical delivery systems studied, marketed products, safety concerns and recent patents.