Authenticity as a local accomplishment: naming, taste, and heritage in Macau’s egg tart culture

This article examines how the pastry known in Macau as the “Portuguese egg tart” became a locally authoritative form whose authenticity no longer depends on fidelity to a single Portuguese original. Drawing on ethnographic fieldwork in Macau, semi-structured interviews, archival and media materials, and a qualitative analysis of user-generated platform posts, it argues that authenticity is produced locally rather than inherited with a recipe. The tart acquired its position through adjustments to sweetness and texture, routinized production, everyday practices of consumption, and public recognition. Naming is central: the label “Portuguese” indexed Macau’s own cultural distinctiveness during the late-colonial transition as much as it identified provenance, which is why a British-devised pastry with a largely Chinese clientele could be authenticated as Portuguese. Heritage recognition later accommodated different recipes rather than certifying one, and the arrival of a Lisbon chain in 2025 shows how claims to Portuguese origin are assessed against established local expectations rather than displacing them.

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Publication Details

Journal
Food Culture & Society
Published
2026-10-30
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1080/15528014.2026.2758432
Primary Topic
Culinary Culture and Tourism
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
0.00
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article

Authenticity as a local accomplishment: naming, taste, and heritage in Macau’s egg tart culture

Vanessa Amaro
Food Culture & Society
Culinary Culture and Tourism
article

Authenticity as a local accomplishment: naming, taste, and heritage in Macau’s egg tart culture

Vanessa Amaro
article en

Abstract

This article examines how the pastry known in Macau as the “Portuguese egg tart” became a locally authoritative form whose authenticity no longer depends on fidelity to a single Portuguese original. Drawing on ethnographic fieldwork in Macau, semi-structured interviews, archival and media materials, and a qualitative analysis of user-generated platform posts, it argues that authenticity is produced locally rather than inherited with a recipe. The tart acquired its position through adjustments to sweetness and texture, routinized production, everyday practices of consumption, and public recognition. Naming is central: the label “Portuguese” indexed Macau’s own cultural distinctiveness during the late-colonial transition as much as it identified provenance, which is why a British-devised pastry with a largely Chinese clientele could be authenticated as Portuguese. Heritage recognition later accommodated different recipes rather than certifying one, and the arrival of a Lisbon chain in 2025 shows how claims to Portuguese origin are assessed against established local expectations rather than displacing them.

Food Culture & Society
Macao Polytechnic University (MO)
Openalex Percentile: Top 16%
Culinary Culture and Tourism
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Authenticity as a local accomplishment: naming, taste, and heritage in Macau’s egg tart culture — Vanessa Amaro · Food Culture & Society (2026) | TGRS Research Map | TGRS