Significance of Saffron Extract in Anti-Wrinkle Cream

Background: Skin ageing is a combination of intrinsic (chronological) ageing and extrinsic (photoageing) ageing acting together on the principal mechanism of oxidative stress, chronic low-grade inflammation and increased levels of matrix metalloproteinases that lead to collagen and elastin degradation and the appearance of wrinkles. This ensures consumer interest in cosmetics containing botanical antioxidants and anti-inflammatory ingredients such as saffron (Crocus sativus L., Iridaceae) whose components (crocins, crocetin, picrocrocin and safranal) have well characterised antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities in cell-free and preclinical models. Objective: The aim of the discussion is to have a critical review of saffron extract as an anti-wrinkle cosmetic active which will cover composition and behavior of saffron extract in formulations, safety aspects as well as research gaps of saffron extract due to anti-wrinkle action. Saffron and its constituents exhibit reproducible free-radical scavenging activity, modulate redox and inflammatory signalling in keratinocytes and fibroblasts and prevent oxidative damage in animal models upon UV exposure. Subjective improvements with respect to hydration, roughness and fine lines have been reported in small studies, primarily in combination products. Formulation has been done on standardised hydro-ethanolic extracts, light protection and preservation and pigment stability. Limited, and occasionally sponsor-specific, clinical databases, pigment instability and the risk of adverse quality control adulteration hinder definitive efficacy conclusions.