Are we in good shape? Patternmaking and garment shaping in women’s sports compression leggings

This study investigates the patternmaking methods used in women’s sports compression leggings available to the Australian consumer market. Eight pairs of leggings, marketed for Active or Recovery use, were analysed using visual and tactile methods commonly employed in fashion practice: technical drawing, garment measuring, and direct pattern tracing. Traced patterns were compared with two standard legging block shapes (one-piece and two-piece patterns) to assess the extent and location of pattern shaping for body contours and posture. All eight garments were found to be based on a one-piece block, with minimal dart or seam shaping. However, all styles showed increased back-rise length relative to the block, and seven incorporated a crotch gusset, suggesting some consideration of comfort in dynamic postures. These findings indicate that current designs rely predominantly on fabric stretch rather than pattern shaping, highlighting a need for further research into pattern shaping methods for compression garments.

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Publication Details

Journal
International Journal of Fashion Design Technology and Education
Published
2026-10-15
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2026.2736301
Primary Topic
Fashion and Cultural Textiles
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
0.00
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article

Are we in good shape? Patternmaking and garment shaping in women’s sports compression leggings

Jenny Underwood, James M. A. Waldie, Rajiv Padhye, Ruth Bunford
International Journal of Fashion Design Technology and Education
Fashion and Cultural Textiles
article

Are we in good shape? Patternmaking and garment shaping in women’s sports compression leggings

Jenny Underwood, James M. A. Waldie, Rajiv Padhye, Ruth Bunford
article en

Abstract

This study investigates the patternmaking methods used in women’s sports compression leggings available to the Australian consumer market. Eight pairs of leggings, marketed for Active or Recovery use, were analysed using visual and tactile methods commonly employed in fashion practice: technical drawing, garment measuring, and direct pattern tracing. Traced patterns were compared with two standard legging block shapes (one-piece and two-piece patterns) to assess the extent and location of pattern shaping for body contours and posture. All eight garments were found to be based on a one-piece block, with minimal dart or seam shaping. However, all styles showed increased back-rise length relative to the block, and seven incorporated a crotch gusset, suggesting some consideration of comfort in dynamic postures. These findings indicate that current designs rely predominantly on fabric stretch rather than pattern shaping, highlighting a need for further research into pattern shaping methods for compression garments.

International Journal of Fashion Design Technology and Education
RMIT University (AU)
Openalex Percentile: Top 2%
Fashion and Cultural Textiles
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