Undertow Structure and Stress Partition Beneath Plunging Breakers

Abstract Undertow beneath breaking waves controls nearshore mass balance and sediment transport, yet the transition between the lower wave–bottom-influenced region and the overlying flow affected by breaking-generated turbulence lacks a clear dynamical definition. This study investigates the vertical structure of undertow and turbulence beneath two regular laboratory plunging waves propagating over a sloping bottom, based on detailed velocity measurements. Time-averaged and phase-resolved fields, together with turbulent statistics, reveal a vertically differentiated flow, with a lower region more directly influenced by wave–bottom interaction and an upper region increasingly affected by breaking-generated turbulence. To formalize this structure, a classical undertow model is used as a diagnostic framework linking the lower and upper flow regions, allowing the identification of an effective matching level directly from the measurements. This level is not interpreted as a geometric thickness, but as a data-driven interface linking lower-layer wave-induced dynamics to the overlying flow. An independent stress-ratio analysis shows that this level is generally located near a transition in the measured partition between wave-coherent and turbulent shear stresses, supporting its interpretation as a stress-partitioning elevation rather than a purely fitted parameter. The present data exhibit a regime-conditioned relationship between the wave-induced stress evaluated at this level and the forcing acting in the overlying region when combined with wave non-linearity. The organization of the present dataset, together with departures observed for additional data, suggest that undertow dynamics in the surf zone are governed by regime-dependent balances rather than by a single universal law.

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Publication Details

Journal
Water Waves
Published
2026-10-05
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1007/s42286-026-00152-x
Primary Topic
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
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article

Undertow Structure and Stress Partition Beneath Plunging Breakers

Michele Mossa, Francesca De Serio
Water Waves
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
article

Undertow Structure and Stress Partition Beneath Plunging Breakers

Michele Mossa, Francesca De Serio
article en

Abstract

Abstract Undertow beneath breaking waves controls nearshore mass balance and sediment transport, yet the transition between the lower wave–bottom-influenced region and the overlying flow affected by breaking-generated turbulence lacks a clear dynamical definition. This study investigates the vertical structure of undertow and turbulence beneath two regular laboratory plunging waves propagating over a sloping bottom, based on detailed velocity measurements. Time-averaged and phase-resolved fields, together with turbulent statistics, reveal a vertically differentiated flow, with a lower region more directly influenced by wave–bottom interaction and an upper region increasingly affected by breaking-generated turbulence. To formalize this structure, a classical undertow model is used as a diagnostic framework linking the lower and upper flow regions, allowing the identification of an effective matching level directly from the measurements. This level is not interpreted as a geometric thickness, but as a data-driven interface linking lower-layer wave-induced dynamics to the overlying flow. An independent stress-ratio analysis shows that this level is generally located near a transition in the measured partition between wave-coherent and turbulent shear stresses, supporting its interpretation as a stress-partitioning elevation rather than a purely fitted parameter. The present data exhibit a regime-conditioned relationship between the wave-induced stress evaluated at this level and the forcing acting in the overlying region when combined with wave non-linearity. The organization of the present dataset, together with departures observed for additional data, suggest that undertow dynamics in the surf zone are governed by regime-dependent balances rather than by a single universal law.

Water Waves
Polytechnic University of Bari (IT)
Openalex Percentile: Top 14%
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
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Undertow Structure and Stress Partition Beneath Plunging Breakers — Michele Mossa, Francesca De Serio · Water Waves (2026) | TGRS Research Map | TGRS