Development and Preliminary Physical Stability Assessment of Anhydrous Kojic Acid–Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate Systems

Kojic acid and vitamin C are widely used depigmenting actives whose therapeutic potential is limited by pronounced instability in aqueous media. This study developed and characterized anhydrous suspensions designed to co-stabilize both compounds within a minimalist squalane-beeswax matrix. Four formulations (F1-F4), varying in active composition, were evaluated immediately after preparation, at 48 hours and after four months of storage, using electrical resistivity, optical microscopy, centrifugation and vortex testing. All suspensions displayed infinite resistivity, suggesting a water-free, non-polar system, and maintained homogeneous active dispersion without agglomeration. Centrifugation revealed composition-dependent stability, with the balanced kojic acid- tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THDA) ratio (F3) showing the greatest resistance to phase separation, while higher THDA loading reduced mechanical robustness. No yellowing, sedimentation or textural change occurred over four months, consistent with a sustained chemical protection. These findings validate anhydrous suspension as an effective, technologically simple strategy for stabilizing photosensitive depigmenting actives in dermatocosmetic formulations.

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Publication Details

Journal
Zenodo (CERN European Organization for Nuclear Research)
Published
2026-09-30
DOI
https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.23061145
Primary Topic
Advancements in Transdermal Drug Delivery
Type
article
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article

Development and Preliminary Physical Stability Assessment of Anhydrous Kojic Acid–Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate Systems

Anca‐Irina Galaction, Daniela Șuteu, Mădălina Poştaru, Delia Turcov et al.
Zenodo (CERN European Organization for Nuclear Research)
Advancements in Transdermal Drug Delivery
article

Development and Preliminary Physical Stability Assessment of Anhydrous Kojic Acid–Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate Systems

Anca‐Irina Galaction, Daniela Șuteu, Mădălina Poştaru, Delia Turcov, Anca Zbranca
article en

Abstract

Kojic acid and vitamin C are widely used depigmenting actives whose therapeutic potential is limited by pronounced instability in aqueous media. This study developed and characterized anhydrous suspensions designed to co-stabilize both compounds within a minimalist squalane-beeswax matrix. Four formulations (F1-F4), varying in active composition, were evaluated immediately after preparation, at 48 hours and after four months of storage, using electrical resistivity, optical microscopy, centrifugation and vortex testing. All suspensions displayed infinite resistivity, suggesting a water-free, non-polar system, and maintained homogeneous active dispersion without agglomeration. Centrifugation revealed composition-dependent stability, with the balanced kojic acid- tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THDA) ratio (F3) showing the greatest resistance to phase separation, while higher THDA loading reduced mechanical robustness. No yellowing, sedimentation or textural change occurred over four months, consistent with a sustained chemical protection. These findings validate anhydrous suspension as an effective, technologically simple strategy for stabilizing photosensitive depigmenting actives in dermatocosmetic formulations.

Zenodo (CERN European Organization for Nuclear Research)
Grigore T. Popa University of Medicine and Pharmacy (RO), Gheorghe Asachi Technical University of Iași (RO)
Clean water and sanitation
Openalex Percentile: Top 14%
Advancements in Transdermal Drug Delivery
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Development and Preliminary Physical Stability Assessment of Anhydrous Kojic Acid–Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate Systems — Anca‐Irina Galaction, Daniela Șuteu, et al. · Zenodo (CERN European Organization for Nuclear Research) (2026) | TGRS Research Map | TGRS