Karami Weave as a Perceptual Structure: Translucency, Presence, and Seasonality in Utsusemi

This article examines how the material structure of karami (leno) weave shapes perceptual experience through a practice-based case study of Utsusemi, a textile installation produced in Nishijin, Kyoto, and inspired by the “Utsusemi” chapter of The Tale of Genji. Rather than approaching karami simply as a translucent textile, the study explores how its open structure creates a sense of presence without fully revealing the object and contributes to the visual expression of seasonality. Utsusemi brings traditional karami weaving into dialogue with kirihaku (cut foil), layered translucent fabrics, light, and scent to create a multisensory experience. The analysis focuses on how translucency, metallic reflection, layering, and the temporal emergence and disappearance of scent produce partial and changing forms of perception. These effects are discussed in relation to mediated presence in The Tale of Genji and culturally organized experiences of seasonality in Heian court culture (794–1185). The article argues that the karami weave can be understood as a historical textile technique and a perceptual structure through which presence, absence, and seasonal sensation are materially configured. It further suggests that traditional textile structures may be reactivated through contemporary multisensory practice without being reduced to historical reproduction.