Preparation and functional properties of polyester-graphene/wool blended yarns and knitted fabrics

In this study, we develop highly functional, thermally regulating, and commercially scalable apparel textiles by integrating thermal control with moisture management. Polybutylene terephthalate/graphene masterbatches (5 wt% graphene) were synthesized via in situ polymerization and melt-compounded at 4 wt%, then melt-spun into hollow cationic dyeable polyethylene terephthalate/graphene staple fibers, yielding a final graphene loading of 0.2 wt%. These fibers were blended with wool and recycled polyester (rPET) using a ring compact spinning system to produce 30'S and 40'S yarns, which were knitted on 24G and 28G circular knitting machines into circular knitted fabrics and subjected to comprehensive thermodynamic, physical, and moisture management evaluation. Comprehensive characterization revealed that the 30'S fabric (J10390, 20/40/40 wt% wool/polyester-graphene/rPET) achieved a far-infrared emissivity coefficient of 0.79, the highest thermal conductivity, of 48.5 mW/(m·K), a peak heat flux of 672.4 W/m 2 , 82% deodorization efficiency, and 77,331-cycle abrasion resistance, making it well suited to intermittent high-intensity activities and durable daily apparel. The 40'S fabric (J10391, 45/30/25 wt% wool/polyester-graphene/rPET) exhibited the highest thermal retention rate, of 31.2%, 97% deodorization efficiency, and superior thermal diffusion uniformity, positioning it for everyday comfort wear and light sportswear. The 40'S fabric displayed rapid moisture transport, reaching a moisture absorption rate of 126%/s, a maximum wetted radius of ≈28 mm, and a spreading speed of ≈4.3 mm/s (grade 5, AATCC TM195), yet both fabrics showed negative overall moisture management capacities, indicating better performance in rapid moisture absorption and diffusion rather than sustained one-way sweat transport in single-layer sportswear. By embedding graphene internally through in situ polymerization and melt spinning rather than relying on surface coatings, this approach overcomes the limitations of poor wash fastness and low abrasion resistance commonly associated with conventional finishing methods. The work also resolves the trade-off between thermal retention and thermal dissipation by balancing the insulating effect of hollow fibers and wool with the conductive and emissive functions of graphene. The 25%–40% rPET content further reduces manufacturing energy by approximately 60% and CO 2 emissions by up to 32%, relative to virgin polyester. Pilot-scale validation confirms the industrial feasibility of producing dyeable, high-performance thermal and activewear textiles through this sustainable route.