Design, Multiparametric Stability, Antioxidant Activity and Release Behavior of an Oil-in-Water Cosmetic Emulsion Co-Loaded with Tyrosol and Kynurenic Acid

Tyrosol and kynurenic acid (KYNA) are natural antioxidants with complementary radical-scavenging and photo-absorbing properties, but their combined performance in a cosmetic formulation has not been reported. We developed an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion containing tyrosol, KYNA, or a 1:1 mixture, using an unloaded emulsion as control. Formulations were evaluated for four weeks at 4, 25, and 40 °C using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), rheology, spreadability, centrifugation, pH, DPPH antioxidant activity, HPLC quantification and release through a dialysis membrane; compositional stability was assessed by elemental (CHN) analysis. Chemical equilibrium parameters showed a consistent trend: the first week represented a maturation phase, likely reflecting redistribution of actives within the matrix, followed by a stable equilibrium state. The results are therefore discussed as initial versus equilibrated conditions. At equilibrium, the binary formulation maintained a skin-compatible pH (4.40 ± 0.04) with lower variability than single-active systems. HPLC confirmed nominal loading without degradation (0.89 ± 0.08% tyrosol, 0.97 ± 0.10% KYNA, and 1.00 ± 0.18% total in the mixture). DPPH analysis of standards revealed cooperative antioxidant enhancement in the mixture, exceeding the activity of either compound alone. In the creams, this produced a modest but reproducible antioxidant effect (9.00 ± 3.94%, 8.91 ± 3.56%, and 7.02 ± 3.59% inhibition for tyrosol, KYNA, and the mixture, respectively, versus 0.67 ± 4.80% for the control). The mixture showed a significant sub-additive interaction only at 4 °C (p = 0.014). Mechanical stability depended mainly on storage temperature: centrifugation-induced phase separation increased from 8% to 28% between weeks 2 and 4 and was largely prevented at room temperature or above. In the dialysis model, the mixture markedly increased tyrosol release while reducing KYNA release, a behavior tentatively attributed to proton-exchange/keto–enol interactions. Overall, room temperature was the optimal storage condition, and the tyrosol-KYNA combination emerged as a stable, skin-compatible antioxidant system for topical application.

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Publication Details

Journal
Cosmetics
Published
2026-09-25
DOI
https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13050258
Primary Topic
Skin Protection and Aging
Type
article
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article

Design, Multiparametric Stability, Antioxidant Activity and Release Behavior of an Oil-in-Water Cosmetic Emulsion Co-Loaded with Tyrosol and Kynurenic Acid

Salvatore Baldino, Fabrizio Caldera, Stefano Di Palma, Adrián Matencio et al.
Cosmetics
Skin Protection and Aging
article

Design, Multiparametric Stability, Antioxidant Activity and Release Behavior of an Oil-in-Water Cosmetic Emulsion Co-Loaded with Tyrosol and Kynurenic Acid

Salvatore Baldino, Fabrizio Caldera, Stefano Di Palma, Adrián Matencio, Francesco Trotta
article en

Abstract

Tyrosol and kynurenic acid (KYNA) are natural antioxidants with complementary radical-scavenging and photo-absorbing properties, but their combined performance in a cosmetic formulation has not been reported. We developed an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion containing tyrosol, KYNA, or a 1:1 mixture, using an unloaded emulsion as control. Formulations were evaluated for four weeks at 4, 25, and 40 °C using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), rheology, spreadability, centrifugation, pH, DPPH antioxidant activity, HPLC quantification and release through a dialysis membrane; compositional stability was assessed by elemental (CHN) analysis. Chemical equilibrium parameters showed a consistent trend: the first week represented a maturation phase, likely reflecting redistribution of actives within the matrix, followed by a stable equilibrium state. The results are therefore discussed as initial versus equilibrated conditions. At equilibrium, the binary formulation maintained a skin-compatible pH (4.40 ± 0.04) with lower variability than single-active systems. HPLC confirmed nominal loading without degradation (0.89 ± 0.08% tyrosol, 0.97 ± 0.10% KYNA, and 1.00 ± 0.18% total in the mixture). DPPH analysis of standards revealed cooperative antioxidant enhancement in the mixture, exceeding the activity of either compound alone. In the creams, this produced a modest but reproducible antioxidant effect (9.00 ± 3.94%, 8.91 ± 3.56%, and 7.02 ± 3.59% inhibition for tyrosol, KYNA, and the mixture, respectively, versus 0.67 ± 4.80% for the control). The mixture showed a significant sub-additive interaction only at 4 °C (p = 0.014). Mechanical stability depended mainly on storage temperature: centrifugation-induced phase separation increased from 8% to 28% between weeks 2 and 4 and was largely prevented at room temperature or above. In the dialysis model, the mixture markedly increased tyrosol release while reducing KYNA release, a behavior tentatively attributed to proton-exchange/keto–enol interactions. Overall, room temperature was the optimal storage condition, and the tyrosol-KYNA combination emerged as a stable, skin-compatible antioxidant system for topical application.

CosmeticsVol. 13(5)
University of Turin (IT), Universidad de Murcia (ES)
Clean water and sanitation
Openalex Percentile: Top 9%
Skin Protection and Aging
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