Optimization of moisture comfort and physical performance in bio-based fiber knits

Shifting towards a more sustainable future involves using eco-friendly fibers such as hemp to reduce our reliance on harmful materials and promote environmental protection. One disadvantage of hemp fiber is its stiffness, which makes it less comfortable to touch or handle. This can be overcome by blending hemp with other fibers. In this study, the aim was to offer alternative, environmentally friendly knitted structures from hemp-based yarns with enhanced moisture comfort properties. For doing so, the rib, half milan, full milan and pique knitted structures were produced from hemp-based yarns in combination with cotton, viscose and an innovative eco-friendly fiber, RefibraTM, which is made from recycled cotton scraps and wood pulp. Employing different yarn combinations during knitting not only influenced the structural properties of the fabrics but also the final fiber composition. After determining the structural and physical characteristics of the yarns and fabrics, the produced knitted samples were evaluated in terms of their moisture-related properties. The experimental data were analyzed using ANOVA to determine the statistical significance of the design parameters. The results demonstrated that while the knitted structure was the dominant factor governing fabric rigidity, complex interaction effects between the yarn combinations and yarn feeding schemes played a critical role in determining moisture management properties, particularly water vapor permeability. To address the conflicting requirements of maximizing breathability while minimizing stiffness, a multi-response optimization using the desirability function approach was employed. The study identified a statistically optimal configuration specifically a Rib (1x1) structure utilizing a Type 3 yarn combination with a Ne 30/2 feeding scheme which achieved the highest overall desirability score (D = 0.968). These findings provide a scientifically validated roadmap for manufacturers to engineer high-performance, sustainable hemp-based knitwear with superior comfort characteristics.