An optimized process for multifunctional bio-dyeing fabrics with sappan wood (Biancaea sappan (L.) Tod.) extracts

Using natural plant dyes for producing textiles can cope with global challenges related to health, hygiene, sustainability, and eco-friendliness. In this research, the color properties and functionality of sappan wood ( Biancaea sappan (L.) Tod.) extracts dyed natural fibers with natural mordants were investigated. LC-MS, UV-Vis spectra, FTIR, SEM were employed to analyze the sappan wood dyes and sample fabrics, then the hematoxylin, sappanchalcone and protosappanin E-1 were identified as the main pigment components and they were successfully dyed fibers. The extraction and dyeing conditions were optimized using an orthogonal experiment. The optimum conditions for extraction were a sappan wood-to-solvent ratio of 1:8 (w: v) at 80 °C for 100 min. Similarly, the optimum conditions for dyeing hemp fabric were pH 7 at 70 °C for 30 min for hemp. The color strength of samples was improved by mordants, especially pomegranate peel. The UV protectiveness and antioxidant performance of dyed hemp fabrics was highest under the LaCl 3 . The anti-microbial activity of samples was boosted through mordants, especially tartaric acid. Except for color changes caused by washing and light, the color fastness of the fabrics under mordants was improved to grade 3–5. Overall, this research demonstrated the potential of using natural mordants with sappan wood extracts to dye hemp fabric, providing UV protection, anti-microbial activity and coloration by an eco-friendly manner for textile applications.