The Science and Mechanics of a Tsunami

Tsunamis are long-period gravity waves generated by disturbances capable of transferring substantial energy into the ocean. Although major submarine earthquakes are responsible for many of history’s most destructive tsunamis, landslides, volcanic eruptions, and atmospheric disturbances can also produce catastrophic coastal flooding. This article investigates the physical mechanisms governing tsunami generation, propagation, shoaling, run-up, and inundation, examining how geological sources interact with ocean bathymetry, coastal geography, infrastructure, and human behavior. Historical and contemporary events, including the 1755 Lisbon earthquake, 1883 Krakatau eruption, 1958 Lituya Bay megatsunami, 1960 Chilean earthquake, 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami, 2011 Tōhoku disaster, 2018 Anak Krakatau collapse, and 2022 Hunga Tonga–Hunga Haʻapai eruption, demonstrate the diversity of tsunami sources and consequences. Particular attention is given to scientific forecasting, warning-system limitations, traditional knowledge, the Philippines, and rising sea levels. Future tsunami risk will depend not only on geological events but also on decisions concerning coastal development, scientific monitoring, infrastructure resilience, and evacuation preparedness.

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Publication Details

Journal
Zenodo (CERN European Organization for Nuclear Research)
Published
2026-09-21
DOI
https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.22874559
Primary Topic
earthquake and tectonic studies
Type
article
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article

The Science and Mechanics of a Tsunami

A. F. Clark
Zenodo (CERN European Organization for Nuclear Research)
earthquake and tectonic studies
article

The Science and Mechanics of a Tsunami

A. F. Clark
article en

Abstract

Tsunamis are long-period gravity waves generated by disturbances capable of transferring substantial energy into the ocean. Although major submarine earthquakes are responsible for many of history’s most destructive tsunamis, landslides, volcanic eruptions, and atmospheric disturbances can also produce catastrophic coastal flooding. This article investigates the physical mechanisms governing tsunami generation, propagation, shoaling, run-up, and inundation, examining how geological sources interact with ocean bathymetry, coastal geography, infrastructure, and human behavior. Historical and contemporary events, including the 1755 Lisbon earthquake, 1883 Krakatau eruption, 1958 Lituya Bay megatsunami, 1960 Chilean earthquake, 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami, 2011 Tōhoku disaster, 2018 Anak Krakatau collapse, and 2022 Hunga Tonga–Hunga Haʻapai eruption, demonstrate the diversity of tsunami sources and consequences. Particular attention is given to scientific forecasting, warning-system limitations, traditional knowledge, the Philippines, and rising sea levels. Future tsunami risk will depend not only on geological events but also on decisions concerning coastal development, scientific monitoring, infrastructure resilience, and evacuation preparedness.

Zenodo (CERN European Organization for Nuclear Research)
Everglades University (US)
Openalex Percentile: Top 13%
earthquake and tectonic studies
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The Science and Mechanics of a Tsunami — A. F. Clark · Zenodo (CERN European Organization for Nuclear Research) (2026) | TGRS Research Map | TGRS