Geometry of Breaking Waves Under Natural Sea Conditions
Abstract Wave breaking geometry is critical for understanding air‐sea interactions, yet its characterization in the field remains limited. This study analyzes the geometry of 16,369 active breaking waves, measured via stereo imagery in the Black Sea under diverse conditions. We investigate statistical relationships between key geometric properties, including breaking length, height, and speed. Our results reveal that geometric scaling is not constant but varies with the sea state, challenging established empirical models. The data indicate a weak relationship between breaking speed and wave geometry, while internal geometric properties show stronger linear relations. A subsequent test of self‐similarity, based on a heavy‐tailed log‐normal distribution, confirmed its rarity ( of events). This comprehensive geometric description underscores that wave breaking properties are sea‐state‐dependent.
Authors
- Pedro Veras Guimarães (ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-1686-4722)
- Fabien Leckler (ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-9711-5706)
- Bertrand Chapron (ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0001-6088-8775)
- Caio Eadi Stringari (ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0003-2773-8921)
- A. Benetazzo
- J.‐F. Filipot
Institutions
- Institut Français (FR)
- Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina (BR)
- Laboratoire de Biotechnologie et Chimie Marines (FR)
- BGC Engineering (Canada) (CA)
- Istituto di Scienze Marine del Consiglio Nazionale delle Ricerche (IT)
- France Énergies Marines (FR)
Publication Details
- Journal
- Geophysical Research Letters
- Published
- 2026-09-16
- DOI
- https://doi.org/10.1029/2026gl122293
- Primary Topic
- Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
- Type
- article
- Field-Weighted Citation Impact
- 0.00