Geometry of Breaking Waves Under Natural Sea Conditions

Abstract Wave breaking geometry is critical for understanding air‐sea interactions, yet its characterization in the field remains limited. This study analyzes the geometry of 16,369 active breaking waves, measured via stereo imagery in the Black Sea under diverse conditions. We investigate statistical relationships between key geometric properties, including breaking length, height, and speed. Our results reveal that geometric scaling is not constant but varies with the sea state, challenging established empirical models. The data indicate a weak relationship between breaking speed and wave geometry, while internal geometric properties show stronger linear relations. A subsequent test of self‐similarity, based on a heavy‐tailed log‐normal distribution, confirmed its rarity ( of events). This comprehensive geometric description underscores that wave breaking properties are sea‐state‐dependent.

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Publication Details

Journal
Geophysical Research Letters
Published
2026-09-16
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1029/2026gl122293
Primary Topic
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
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article

Geometry of Breaking Waves Under Natural Sea Conditions

Pedro Veras Guimarães, Fabien Leckler, Bertrand Chapron, Caio Eadi Stringari et al.
Geophysical Research Letters
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
article

Geometry of Breaking Waves Under Natural Sea Conditions

Pedro Veras Guimarães, Fabien Leckler, Bertrand Chapron, Caio Eadi Stringari, A. Benetazzo, J.‐F. Filipot
article en

Abstract

Abstract Wave breaking geometry is critical for understanding air‐sea interactions, yet its characterization in the field remains limited. This study analyzes the geometry of 16,369 active breaking waves, measured via stereo imagery in the Black Sea under diverse conditions. We investigate statistical relationships between key geometric properties, including breaking length, height, and speed. Our results reveal that geometric scaling is not constant but varies with the sea state, challenging established empirical models. The data indicate a weak relationship between breaking speed and wave geometry, while internal geometric properties show stronger linear relations. A subsequent test of self‐similarity, based on a heavy‐tailed log‐normal distribution, confirmed its rarity ( of events). This comprehensive geometric description underscores that wave breaking properties are sea‐state‐dependent.

Geophysical Research LettersVol. 53(18)
Institut Français (FR), Universidade Federal de Santa Catarina (BR), Laboratoire de Biotechnologie et Chimie Marines (FR), BGC Engineering (Canada) (CA), Istituto di Scienze Marine del Consiglio Nazionale delle Ricerche (IT), France Énergies Marines (FR)
Life below water
Openalex Percentile: Top 14%
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
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