Rethinking apparel sizing systems: a morphology-based critique of measurement-driven design approaches

Apparel sizing systems translate body dimensions into garment structures but rely on anthropometric measurements that reduce the body to limited linear dimensions, often overlooking its three-dimensional complexity. This study uses a conceptual research design supported by a structured integrative review of literature on apparel design, anthropometry, digital body modelling, and garment engineering to examine assumptions underlying measurement-based sizing and their implications for pattern engineering. Three limitations are identified: proportional grading assumptions, dimensional reduction of body form, and abstraction in translating body data into garment structures. In response, the article proposes a morphology-oriented framework that conceptualises the body as an integrated three-dimensional form defined by curvature, volume distribution, and spatial relationships, informing panel shaping, seam configuration, and ease distribution. The framework positions body morphology as the engineering translation layer between body representation and pattern engineering. The framework operationalises morphological observation, interpretation, pattern translation and digital implementation to support morphology-informed apparel engineering and future computational garment development.