Effects of Creams Containing Plant Cell Culture Extracts on Selected Parameters of Mature Skin: An In Vivo Evaluation of Elasticity, Hydration, Gloss, and Sebum Levels Using the Multi Probe Adapter (MPA)

Plant cell culture-derived extracts are emerging as innovative and sustainable sources of bioactive ingredients for cosmetic applications. This study aimed to develop a stable cream base and to evaluate the effects of formulations containing 2% extracts derived from Malus domestica, Rosa damascena, or Echinacea angustifolia cell cultures on selected biophysical parameters of mature skin. Three cream bases were initially prepared, and formulation B I was selected based on sensory, physicochemical, and application properties and remained stable for 90 days. An 8-week in vivo study was then conducted in 30 women aged 40–63 years, randomly assigned to three treatment groups. The formulations were applied twice daily, and skin hydration, sebum level, firmness, elasticity, and gloss were assessed at baseline and after 4 and 8 weeks using Corneometer®, Sebumeter®, Cutometer®, and Skin-Glossymeter® measurements. All formulations were associated with increased skin hydration and improved firmness, reflected by lower R0 values, while R2 and R5 generally increased, with statistical significance varying by group and assessment time point. Skin gloss remained largely stable, and the greatest increase in sebum was observed with the Echinacea angustifolia formulation. No formulation showed consistent superiority across the evaluated parameters. These findings provide exploratory evidence on the performance of cosmetic formulations containing plant cell culture-derived extracts in mature skin.