Embedded garment features constrain textile waste sorting and fibre-to-fibre recycling

Textile waste management increasingly depends on sorting discarded garments into suitable reuse, resale, and recycling routes. Yet recyclability assessments often focus on fibre composition while overlooking garment-level design features that may complicate sorting, pre-processing, and preparation of recycling-compatible feedstock. Here we develop a garment-level screening framework to identify such disruptor indicators from retailer web data and apply it to 47,522 garment variants from H&M and Uniqlo in the United Kingdom and Australia. We find that these features are embedded in ordinary garment construction, not limited to visible hardware or exceptional decorative features. Overall, 55.1% of variants exhibited at least one core disruptor indicator. Retained-barrier indicators, including linings, multilayers, trims, coatings, and secondary components, were more prevalent than removable-hardware indicators, affecting 44.9% and 27.2% of variants. Among variants with at least one hardware indicator, 93.4% lacked material-specific information. These findings show that fibre composition alone is insufficient for assessing textile waste processability, and that component-level information on hardware, linings, coatings, trims, and secondary materials is needed to support sorting, pre-processing, and recycling-feedstock preparation.

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Publication Details

Journal
Waste Management
Published
2026-09-12
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.wasman.2026.115853
Primary Topic
Textile materials and evaluations
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
0.00

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article

Embedded garment features constrain textile waste sorting and fibre-to-fibre recycling

Grit Walther, Kai Li
Waste Management
Textile materials and evaluations
article

Embedded garment features constrain textile waste sorting and fibre-to-fibre recycling

Grit Walther, Kai Li
article en

Abstract

Textile waste management increasingly depends on sorting discarded garments into suitable reuse, resale, and recycling routes. Yet recyclability assessments often focus on fibre composition while overlooking garment-level design features that may complicate sorting, pre-processing, and preparation of recycling-compatible feedstock. Here we develop a garment-level screening framework to identify such disruptor indicators from retailer web data and apply it to 47,522 garment variants from H&M and Uniqlo in the United Kingdom and Australia. We find that these features are embedded in ordinary garment construction, not limited to visible hardware or exceptional decorative features. Overall, 55.1% of variants exhibited at least one core disruptor indicator. Retained-barrier indicators, including linings, multilayers, trims, coatings, and secondary components, were more prevalent than removable-hardware indicators, affecting 44.9% and 27.2% of variants. Among variants with at least one hardware indicator, 93.4% lacked material-specific information. These findings show that fibre composition alone is insufficient for assessing textile waste processability, and that component-level information on hardware, linings, coatings, trims, and secondary materials is needed to support sorting, pre-processing, and recycling-feedstock preparation.

Waste ManagementVol. 226
RWTH Aachen University (DE)
Werner Siemens-Stiftung
Openalex Percentile: Top 22%
Textile materials and evaluations
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Embedded garment features constrain textile waste sorting and fibre-to-fibre recycling — Grit Walther, Kai Li · Waste Management (2026) | TGRS Research Map | TGRS