KES-F-based assessment of tensile and compression properties in sewn seams of plain weave cotton woven fabric

Purpose In this study, the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KES-F) is used to assess and analyse the detailed tensile and compressive properties of sewn seams on 100% plain woven fabrics. Design/methodology/approach Three levels of process factors, which include fabric areal densities (50, 70 and 90 GSM), stitch densities (stitches per inch) (10, 12, 14) and Sewing Thread Ticket Numbers (30, 80 and 130), were selected for sample development with superimposed seam (SSa) using a single-needle lockstitch machine under 301 stitch class. Optimisation of the influencing sewing parameters on KES-based tensile and compression characteristics along the seam line was performed using response surface methodology (RSM) based on a Box–Behnken Design. Findings To the best of the authors’ knowledge, this study is among the first to systematically model both tensile and compression KES responses directly along the sewn seam using RSM. The results of this study demonstrated that one of the sewing parameters, such as fabric areal density (GSM), is the dominant factor influencing the tensile response at the seam line. In contrast, stitch density and sewing thread ticket number have significantly affected extensibility and load transfer behaviour. Originality/value The developed regression models for the low-stress mechanical tensile and compression responses on the seam line exhibit higher statistical suitability and predictive capability.