Lignan‐rich Norway spruce ( Picea abies ) resin extract exhibits anti‐inflammatory, skin‐regenerative and anti‐acne effects: In vitro, in silico, biocompatibility and exploratory clinical findings

OBJECTIVE: To investigate the antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and early pro-repair properties of Picea abies resin extract and a 30% extract-based cream and to explore preliminary in-use performance, tolerability and cosmetic acceptability in adults with mild acne. METHODS: The chemical composition of the extract was characterized by GC-MS. Anti-Cutibacterium acnes activity was evaluated by minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) determination, time-kill testing and an inoculated-cream model. Anti-inflammatory and pro-repair effects were assessed in LPS-stimulated human keratinocytes by measuring IL-1α, IL-6 and IL-8, and in normal human dermal fibroblasts by cellular protein synthesis. Mechanistic plausibility was explored by Glide SP docking against AlphaFold2-generated models of IKKβ, JNK1, NF-κB and PPARγ. Safety was evaluated by ISO 10993-5 agar diffusion and a 48-h human patch test, and clinical performance was explored in a 28-day, open-label, uncontrolled in-use evaluation involving adults with mild facial acne. RESULTS: reduction after 8 h in the inoculated-cream model. In LPS-stimulated keratinocytes, the cream reduced IL-1α by 14-17%, IL-6 by 22-39% and IL-8 by 16-26%. In dermal fibroblasts, cellular protein synthesis increased by 35-50% within 24-48 h. Docking identified putative interactions of lignans and p-coumaric acid with IKKβ, JNK1, NF-κB and PPARγ, providing hypotheses for further mechanistic investigation. No cytotoxicity or irritation was observed. In an exploratory open-label 28-day in-use study (n = 31), total lesions decreased 26.8% (p < 0.0001), papules 52.1% (p = 0.001) and comedones 17.6% (p < 0.0001), with 87% favourable acceptability and no reported intolerance. CONCLUSION: Picea abies resin extract and the extract-containing cream demonstrated antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and early pro-repair activities in preclinical models, with good tolerability. Docking identified potential compound-target interactions that may help guide future mechanistic studies. The exploratory 28-day in-use evaluation provided preliminary signals of reduced papules and comedones/microcysts and good cosmetic acceptability. These findings support further mechanistic investigation in adequately powered, randomized, vehicle-controlled clinical studies.

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Publication Details

Journal
International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Published
2026-09-11
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70147
Primary Topic
Acne and Rosacea Treatments and Effects
Type
article
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article

Lignan‐rich Norway spruce ( Picea abies ) resin extract exhibits anti‐inflammatory, skin‐regenerative and anti‐acne effects: In vitro, in silico, biocompatibility and exploratory clinical findings

Laura Punakallio, Maryam Ghanbarirad, Evgen Multia, Kamilla Yamileva et al.
International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Acne and Rosacea Treatments and Effects
article

Lignan‐rich Norway spruce ( Picea abies ) resin extract exhibits anti‐inflammatory, skin‐regenerative and anti‐acne effects: In vitro, in silico, biocompatibility and exploratory clinical findings

Laura Punakallio, Maryam Ghanbarirad, Evgen Multia, Kamilla Yamileva, Simone Parrotta
article en

Abstract

OBJECTIVE: To investigate the antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and early pro-repair properties of Picea abies resin extract and a 30% extract-based cream and to explore preliminary in-use performance, tolerability and cosmetic acceptability in adults with mild acne. METHODS: The chemical composition of the extract was characterized by GC-MS. Anti-Cutibacterium acnes activity was evaluated by minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) determination, time-kill testing and an inoculated-cream model. Anti-inflammatory and pro-repair effects were assessed in LPS-stimulated human keratinocytes by measuring IL-1α, IL-6 and IL-8, and in normal human dermal fibroblasts by cellular protein synthesis. Mechanistic plausibility was explored by Glide SP docking against AlphaFold2-generated models of IKKβ, JNK1, NF-κB and PPARγ. Safety was evaluated by ISO 10993-5 agar diffusion and a 48-h human patch test, and clinical performance was explored in a 28-day, open-label, uncontrolled in-use evaluation involving adults with mild facial acne. RESULTS: reduction after 8 h in the inoculated-cream model. In LPS-stimulated keratinocytes, the cream reduced IL-1α by 14-17%, IL-6 by 22-39% and IL-8 by 16-26%. In dermal fibroblasts, cellular protein synthesis increased by 35-50% within 24-48 h. Docking identified putative interactions of lignans and p-coumaric acid with IKKβ, JNK1, NF-κB and PPARγ, providing hypotheses for further mechanistic investigation. No cytotoxicity or irritation was observed. In an exploratory open-label 28-day in-use study (n = 31), total lesions decreased 26.8% (p < 0.0001), papules 52.1% (p = 0.001) and comedones 17.6% (p < 0.0001), with 87% favourable acceptability and no reported intolerance. CONCLUSION: Picea abies resin extract and the extract-containing cream demonstrated antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and early pro-repair activities in preclinical models, with good tolerability. Docking identified potential compound-target interactions that may help guide future mechanistic studies. The exploratory 28-day in-use evaluation provided preliminary signals of reduced papules and comedones/microcysts and good cosmetic acceptability. These findings support further mechanistic investigation in adequately powered, randomized, vehicle-controlled clinical studies.

International Journal of Cosmetic Science
Ferring Pharmaceuticals (Finland) (FI), Aalto University (FI)
Life in Land
Openalex Percentile: Top 9%
Acne and Rosacea Treatments and Effects
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