Lignan‐rich Norway spruce ( Picea abies ) resin extract exhibits anti‐inflammatory, skin‐regenerative and anti‐acne effects: In vitro, in silico, biocompatibility and exploratory clinical findings
OBJECTIVE: To investigate the antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and early pro-repair properties of Picea abies resin extract and a 30% extract-based cream and to explore preliminary in-use performance, tolerability and cosmetic acceptability in adults with mild acne. METHODS: The chemical composition of the extract was characterized by GC-MS. Anti-Cutibacterium acnes activity was evaluated by minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) determination, time-kill testing and an inoculated-cream model. Anti-inflammatory and pro-repair effects were assessed in LPS-stimulated human keratinocytes by measuring IL-1α, IL-6 and IL-8, and in normal human dermal fibroblasts by cellular protein synthesis. Mechanistic plausibility was explored by Glide SP docking against AlphaFold2-generated models of IKKβ, JNK1, NF-κB and PPARγ. Safety was evaluated by ISO 10993-5 agar diffusion and a 48-h human patch test, and clinical performance was explored in a 28-day, open-label, uncontrolled in-use evaluation involving adults with mild facial acne. RESULTS: reduction after 8 h in the inoculated-cream model. In LPS-stimulated keratinocytes, the cream reduced IL-1α by 14-17%, IL-6 by 22-39% and IL-8 by 16-26%. In dermal fibroblasts, cellular protein synthesis increased by 35-50% within 24-48 h. Docking identified putative interactions of lignans and p-coumaric acid with IKKβ, JNK1, NF-κB and PPARγ, providing hypotheses for further mechanistic investigation. No cytotoxicity or irritation was observed. In an exploratory open-label 28-day in-use study (n = 31), total lesions decreased 26.8% (p < 0.0001), papules 52.1% (p = 0.001) and comedones 17.6% (p < 0.0001), with 87% favourable acceptability and no reported intolerance. CONCLUSION: Picea abies resin extract and the extract-containing cream demonstrated antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and early pro-repair activities in preclinical models, with good tolerability. Docking identified potential compound-target interactions that may help guide future mechanistic studies. The exploratory 28-day in-use evaluation provided preliminary signals of reduced papules and comedones/microcysts and good cosmetic acceptability. These findings support further mechanistic investigation in adequately powered, randomized, vehicle-controlled clinical studies.
Authors
- Laura Punakallio (ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-7584-5310)
- Maryam Ghanbarirad
- Evgen Multia (ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-8717-8842)
- Kamilla Yamileva
- Simone Parrotta (ORCID: https://orcid.org/0009-0007-8056-2204)
Institutions
- Ferring Pharmaceuticals (Finland) (FI)
- Aalto University (FI)
Publication Details
- Journal
- International Journal of Cosmetic Science
- Published
- 2026-09-11
- DOI
- https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.70147
- Primary Topic
- Acne and Rosacea Treatments and Effects
- Type
- article
- Field-Weighted Citation Impact
- 0.00