Enzymatic extraction of Manjistha dye for sustainable cotton geotextile coloration using pomegranate mordant application and performance evaluation

The increasing public demand for sustainable processing of textiles and fibers has spurred the development of ecofriendly natural dyeing technologies. In this study, Rubia cordifolia (Manjistha) dye has been investigated for sustainable coloring of cotton-based geotextiles with the help of Punica granatum (pomegranate) peel biomordanting. Mild aqueous conditions were used to facilitate the dye extraction, with cellulase and pectinase enzymes being used to improve dye extraction, thereby decreasing the energy and chemical use of traditional extraction techniques. The results showed that the color strength ( K/S ) of the extract dyeing was significantly higher as a result of enzyme-assisted extraction involving biomordanting, increasing from 37.20 for the untreated control to 81.60. Similarly, the dye yield was higher after enzyme-assisted extraction (59.20%) than with the untreated control (90.20%), indicating that tannin-mediated interactions lead to better dye fixation. The dyed geotextiles showed a statistically significant 11.44% and 11.33% increase in tensile strength in the warp and weft directions, respectively, good washing and wet rubbing fastness (Grade 4), dry rubbing fastness (Grade 3), light fastness (Grade 6), and excellent UV protection (UPF > 40). The effluent parameters pH of 7.0, COD 180 mg/l, BOD 20 mg/l, TDS 1800 mg/l, TSS 50 mg/l, and oil and grease 5 mg/l were found to be in accordance with the CPCB discharge standards. The results show that the enzyme-assisted extraction and Punica granatum peel biomordanting is a promising technique to produce multifunctional geotextiles for agrotextile and other environmentally friendly applications of cotton.