Beyond camp: defining the concept of irony in fashion

Abstract The idea of fashion irony has existed since Elsa Schiaparelli, growing especially prominent since the 1990s, appearing in the works of fashion designers like Franco Moschino, Jeremy Scott, Viktor&Rolf, Demna Gvasalia, and Virgil Abloh, among others. There is, however, a paucity of academic research on the subject. No definition of fashion irony has ever been provided nor any analysis of the ironic undertaken in fashion objects or ideas. The aim of this article is to propose a definition of the concept of fashion irony, exploring the complexities of its perception. Using the framework of the theory of the concept by Deleuze and Guattari, the text defines fashion irony as a concept of the wider field of visual irony, discussing its links to the cultural phenomenon of camp and the sartorial expressions of its ironic aspect. Having introduced the difficulties of recognizing fashion irony outside camp, the text provides a review of further possibilities for investigation into this under-researched academic field.