Endogenous Textile Epistemology: Reading African Textile Traditions as Systems of Knowledge Production

In this article, I argue that African textile traditions produce structured and philosophically grounded knowledge that is transmitted across generations through the practice of making cloth. This article proposes endogenous textile epistemology as a methodology for reading that knowledge. The methodology organizes around four analytical dimensions: embodied knowledge, surface as text, distributed cognition and adaptive intelligence. Embodied knowledge addresses what the maker generates through correspondence with material while surface as text highlights the philosophical principles encoded in the patterned surface of the finished textile. Distributed cognition reflects on knowledge held collectively across the social relations of production, through guild structures, apprenticeship systems, and the accumulated material knowledge of the tradition and finally, adaptive intelligence examines the capacity of a textile tradition to absorb historical disruption and continue generating knowledge in new forms, a structural property of practice-based knowledge systems. I demonstrate how each dimension operates in practice through Àdìrẹ, the Yorùbá indigo-dyed resist textile tradition of southwestern Nigeria. The overall aim of this article is to present a framework for reading any African textile tradition as a knowledge producing system.

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Publication Details

Journal
TEXTILE
Published
2026-08-27
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2026.2716832
Primary Topic
Fashion and Cultural Textiles
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
0.00

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article

Endogenous Textile Epistemology: Reading African Textile Traditions as Systems of Knowledge Production

Modupeola Wemimo Oyeyemi
TEXTILE
Fashion and Cultural Textiles
article

Endogenous Textile Epistemology: Reading African Textile Traditions as Systems of Knowledge Production

Modupeola Wemimo Oyeyemi
article en

Abstract

In this article, I argue that African textile traditions produce structured and philosophically grounded knowledge that is transmitted across generations through the practice of making cloth. This article proposes endogenous textile epistemology as a methodology for reading that knowledge. The methodology organizes around four analytical dimensions: embodied knowledge, surface as text, distributed cognition and adaptive intelligence. Embodied knowledge addresses what the maker generates through correspondence with material while surface as text highlights the philosophical principles encoded in the patterned surface of the finished textile. Distributed cognition reflects on knowledge held collectively across the social relations of production, through guild structures, apprenticeship systems, and the accumulated material knowledge of the tradition and finally, adaptive intelligence examines the capacity of a textile tradition to absorb historical disruption and continue generating knowledge in new forms, a structural property of practice-based knowledge systems. I demonstrate how each dimension operates in practice through Àdìrẹ, the Yorùbá indigo-dyed resist textile tradition of southwestern Nigeria. The overall aim of this article is to present a framework for reading any African textile tradition as a knowledge producing system.

TEXTILE
Université Mohammed VI Polytechnique, Center for African Studies
Quality Education
Openalex Percentile: Top 2%
Fashion and Cultural Textiles
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