<i>Sof</i> Fabric Crafted from Angora Goat Mohair and Characterization of Some Ottoman <i>Sof</i> Representations

Sof is a luxurious fabric woven from the mohair of the Angora goat and was highly esteemed between the fifteenth and nineteenth centuries by Ottoman sultans, European clergy, and aristocratic elites. This study presents an archaeometric analysis of some Ottoman sof textiles (caftan, shalwar, blanket, and fur coat) and provides a concise historical context for the development of Angora goat breeding and the traditional utilization of mohair. The analytical techniques employed include high-performance liquid chromatography with a diode array detector for dye identification, and scanning electron microscopy to determine fiber morphology and diameter. The dye analysis revealed the use of plant-based colorants, including madder (Rubia tinctorum L.), weld (Reseda luteola L.), indigo-producing plants (true indigo-Indigofera tinctoria L. or woad-Isatis tinctoria L.), and a source of hydrolyzable tannins. Additionally, insect-derived dyes originating from cochineal insects, such as Mexican/American cochineal (Dactylopius coccus Costa), Armenian cochineal (Porphyrophora hamelii Brandt), or Polish cochineal (Porphyrophora polonica L.). Although previous studies have explored the historical origins of sof textiles, a comprehensive analytical characterization integrating dye analysis and fiber morphology has not yet been reported to date. The results of this study, therefore, contribute to a deeper understanding of historical textile production techniques and Ottoman material culture.