From Motif to System: Rethinking Batik as a Visual and Material Knowledge System in Lasem

Lasem batik is widely recognized as a cultural artifact, representing the long-standing interactions between Javanese and Chinese communities along Java’s northern coast. Prior research has largely focused on batik designs, their symbolic meanings, or their economic functions, while frequently neglecting the practical processes that underpin the creation of cultural knowledge. This investigation shifts the analytical focus, departing from the conventional interpretation of motifs as isolated symbols and instead conceptualizing batik as a relational visual system, a medium through which cultural knowledge is both organized and reshaped. Employing a qualitative methodology and collaborating with artisans, this study explores how cultural references, derived from ecological contexts, historical events, and quotidian experiences, are translated into visual representations in batik-making. The study reveals three interconnected processes: visual structuring, the negotiation of design conventions, and the physical creation of objects using wax-resist techniques. These interconnected processes collectively illustrate batik’s function as a dynamic system, in which meaning arises from the interplay among visual elements, compositional organization, and material techniques. By conceptualizing batik as a system, this study contributes to textile and craft studies. It does so by clarifying how cultural comprehension is produced, organized, and reshaped through material and visual practices.

Authors

Publication Details

Journal
TEXTILE
Published
2026-08-03
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2026.2707197
Primary Topic
Crafts, Textile, and Design
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
0.00
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article

From Motif to System: Rethinking Batik as a Visual and Material Knowledge System in Lasem

Julita Oesanty Oetojo, Vera Jenny Basiroen
TEXTILE
Crafts, Textile, and Design
article

From Motif to System: Rethinking Batik as a Visual and Material Knowledge System in Lasem

Julita Oesanty Oetojo, Vera Jenny Basiroen
article en

Abstract

Lasem batik is widely recognized as a cultural artifact, representing the long-standing interactions between Javanese and Chinese communities along Java’s northern coast. Prior research has largely focused on batik designs, their symbolic meanings, or their economic functions, while frequently neglecting the practical processes that underpin the creation of cultural knowledge. This investigation shifts the analytical focus, departing from the conventional interpretation of motifs as isolated symbols and instead conceptualizing batik as a relational visual system, a medium through which cultural knowledge is both organized and reshaped. Employing a qualitative methodology and collaborating with artisans, this study explores how cultural references, derived from ecological contexts, historical events, and quotidian experiences, are translated into visual representations in batik-making. The study reveals three interconnected processes: visual structuring, the negotiation of design conventions, and the physical creation of objects using wax-resist techniques. These interconnected processes collectively illustrate batik’s function as a dynamic system, in which meaning arises from the interplay among visual elements, compositional organization, and material techniques. By conceptualizing batik as a system, this study contributes to textile and craft studies. It does so by clarifying how cultural comprehension is produced, organized, and reshaped through material and visual practices.

TEXTILE
Life below water
Openalex Percentile: Top 2%
Crafts, Textile, and Design
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