Labor, Identity, and Resistance: The Journey of Kashmiri Artisans from Mastery to Marginalization

The handicrafts of Kashmir, renowned for their artistry and cultural significance, have been integral to the identity and economy of Kashmir for centuries. This paper looks at the past and present conditions of Kashmiri artisans, focusing on their central role in creating iconic shawls, carpets, and other handicrafts. Even though their work became famous all over the world, the artisans themselves were always taken advantage of by harsh governments, such as the Afghans, Sikhs, and Dogras. This exploitation was institutionalized through systems like the Dagshawl (Shawl Department), leading to meager wages, inhumane working conditions, and significant social stigma. The artisans frequently exhibited resilience through acts of collective resistance, though these efforts were often met with brutal suppression. Post-Partition reforms significantly improved the agricultural sector but failed to dismantle the exploitative feudal structures within the artisan industries, and government initiatives like industrial cooperatives collapsed due to corruption and red tape. Today, the industry faces an existential crisis as younger generations are abandoning traditional crafts for more secure livelihoods due to declining earnings and inadequate support. This demographic shift leaves the craft primarily in the hands of older individuals and women. By exploring the socio-economic transitions, this paper highlights the enduring struggle of the artisans and advocates for sustainable policies to preserve their legacy. It aims to inspire recognition and revival of this invaluable cultural heritage before it is lost to history.

Authors

Publication Details

Journal
TEXTILE
Published
2026-08-03
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1080/14759756.2026.2710253
Primary Topic
South Asian Studies and Conflicts
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
0.00
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article

Labor, Identity, and Resistance: The Journey of Kashmiri Artisans from Mastery to Marginalization

Aadil Yaseen, Arjumand Amin
TEXTILE
South Asian Studies and Conflicts
article

Labor, Identity, and Resistance: The Journey of Kashmiri Artisans from Mastery to Marginalization

Aadil Yaseen, Arjumand Amin
article en

Abstract

The handicrafts of Kashmir, renowned for their artistry and cultural significance, have been integral to the identity and economy of Kashmir for centuries. This paper looks at the past and present conditions of Kashmiri artisans, focusing on their central role in creating iconic shawls, carpets, and other handicrafts. Even though their work became famous all over the world, the artisans themselves were always taken advantage of by harsh governments, such as the Afghans, Sikhs, and Dogras. This exploitation was institutionalized through systems like the Dagshawl (Shawl Department), leading to meager wages, inhumane working conditions, and significant social stigma. The artisans frequently exhibited resilience through acts of collective resistance, though these efforts were often met with brutal suppression. Post-Partition reforms significantly improved the agricultural sector but failed to dismantle the exploitative feudal structures within the artisan industries, and government initiatives like industrial cooperatives collapsed due to corruption and red tape. Today, the industry faces an existential crisis as younger generations are abandoning traditional crafts for more secure livelihoods due to declining earnings and inadequate support. This demographic shift leaves the craft primarily in the hands of older individuals and women. By exploring the socio-economic transitions, this paper highlights the enduring struggle of the artisans and advocates for sustainable policies to preserve their legacy. It aims to inspire recognition and revival of this invaluable cultural heritage before it is lost to history.

TEXTILE
Openalex Percentile: Top 3%
South Asian Studies and Conflicts
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