Dyeing performance of Lawsonia inermis leaf extract on mulberry silk fibre: effect of cocoon stifling and mordanting method

Abstract The present study evaluated the influence of cocoon stifling and mordanting methods on the dyeing performance of Lawsonia inermis leaf extract on raw mulberry silk fibre. Silk fibres obtained through open sun drying, open sun drying with black cloth, barrel steaming, and hot air oven drying were dyed using henna extract (15%) with ferrous sulphate (3%) mordant under pre-, simultaneous-, post-, and without-mordanting methods. Significant differences were observed in percent dye absorption, colour coordinates, colour strength, and fastness properties among treatments. The highest dye absorption (78.73 ± 3.43%) was recorded in silk obtained through open sun drying with black cloth under post-mordanting, whereas simultaneous mordanting showed the highest ΔE (64.66 ± 3.85) and colour strength (K/S 3.76 ± 0.52). Mordanted samples exhibited better dye fixation and colour fastness than unmordanted samples. The study demonstrates that cocoon stifling history significantly affects the dyeability of silk fibre and confirms the potential of henna as a sustainable natural dye for eco-friendly silk coloration.