Bio-enfleurage: a new method for microbial-based scent extraction

Abstract This research inquiry proposes the re-interpretation of a traditional 18th-century perfume technique called enfleurage through biodesign. Traditionally, enfleurage was employed for flowers too delicate to endure more aggressive extraction methods, using a fat-based carrier to capture their scent. The novel bio-enfleurage technique is designed, instead, to capture the scent from Streptomyces griseus, a bacterial strain found in most healthy soil. The paper will discuss the production of a petrichor scent with this novel bio-enfleurage process. Petrichor, the earthy fragrance experienced when rain hits dry ground, has long been chased by scientists and perfumers for its enduring appeal, resulting in the use of geosmin, its main odour compound, as a highly evocative material in scent formulation. This research bridges traditional perfume craft with biotechnology, illustrating a new process for capturing microbial-based aromatic compounds, which is transferable to other organisms and provides a sustainable, low-tech alternative for scent production.

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Publication Details

Journal
Research Directions Biotechnology Design
Published
2026-07-28
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1017/s2977905726100663
Primary Topic
Plant and Biological Electrophysiology Studies
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
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article

Bio-enfleurage: a new method for microbial-based scent extraction

Carole Collet, Barbara Smith, Lucrezia Alessandroni, Alice Taylor
Research Directions Biotechnology Design
Plant and Biological Electrophysiology Studies
article

Bio-enfleurage: a new method for microbial-based scent extraction

Carole Collet, Barbara Smith, Lucrezia Alessandroni, Alice Taylor
article en

Abstract

Abstract This research inquiry proposes the re-interpretation of a traditional 18th-century perfume technique called enfleurage through biodesign. Traditionally, enfleurage was employed for flowers too delicate to endure more aggressive extraction methods, using a fat-based carrier to capture their scent. The novel bio-enfleurage technique is designed, instead, to capture the scent from Streptomyces griseus, a bacterial strain found in most healthy soil. The paper will discuss the production of a petrichor scent with this novel bio-enfleurage process. Petrichor, the earthy fragrance experienced when rain hits dry ground, has long been chased by scientists and perfumers for its enduring appeal, resulting in the use of geosmin, its main odour compound, as a highly evocative material in scent formulation. This research bridges traditional perfume craft with biotechnology, illustrating a new process for capturing microbial-based aromatic compounds, which is transferable to other organisms and provides a sustainable, low-tech alternative for scent production.

Research Directions Biotechnology Design
University of the Arts London (GB)
Responsible consumption and production
Openalex Percentile: Top 10%
Plant and Biological Electrophysiology Studies
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Bio-enfleurage: a new method for microbial-based scent extraction — Carole Collet, Barbara Smith, et al. · Research Directions Biotechnology Design (2026) | TGRS Research Map | TGRS