External resource dependence and business model configurations in fashion cross-border e-commerce: evidence from China

Purpose Drawing on resource-dependence theory (RDT), this study examines external resource dependence in Chinese fashion cross-border e-commerce (CBEC) by identifying demand traffic and supplier sources as critical resources. It further develops three dependence–governance business models (DGBMs), extending understanding of how firms navigate resource constraints within the platform economy. Design/methodology/approach This study adopts a qualitative design, based on 13 semi-structured interviews with CBEC professionals in China, supplemented by secondary data. The study employed purposive and snowball sampling, data triangulation, investigator triangulation and iterative cross-coding procedures supported by MAXQDA. The data were analyzed using constant comparative methods and coding techniques guided by RDT. Findings CBEC firms depend on demand traffic and supplier sources as key external resources. DGBMs, including platform-dependent (PDS), independent (IS) and collaborative platform (CPS), capture distinct governance responses to this dependence, explaining how firms balance reliance and control in platform-based environments. The findings further suggest that competition in fashion CBEC is increasingly shaped by firms' ability to manage externally governed platform and supply chain resources. Research limitations/implications As an exploratory qualitative study with a relatively small sample, the findings may limit generalizability and warrant validation through larger and more diverse samples, as well as the use of additional research methods. Future studies may further examine how dependence structures evolve across different fashion CBEC ecosystems and institutional contexts. Practical implications The study provides guidance for CBEC firms in managing platform dependence through diverse business model choices, highlighting the roles of digital capabilities, traffic diversification and supplier coordination. The findings are particularly relevant for fashion brands, retailers and sourcing-oriented firms seeking to leverage digital platforms for global expansion while reducing excessive dependence on platform-controlled resources. It also offers insights for platform providers and policymakers, particularly regarding the importance of digital infrastructure and industrial clusters. Social implications The findings may have implications for broader societal concerns related to platform governance and labor conditions in fast fashion CBEC supply chains, suggesting the importance of more transparent and responsible ecosystem development. Originality/value This study advances RDT by conceptualizing DGBMs in CBEC contexts, linking resource dependence to governance configurations and advancing understanding of how firms create, deliver and capture value in platform-mediated environments. By positioning fashion CBEC as a platform-governed ecosystem, this study extends existing CBEC research beyond operational performance toward the structural management of externally controlled resources.