If not now, when? Critical reflections on the future of sustainability among fashion industry leaders

Purpose The purpose of this research was to consider the future of sustainability within the fashion industry from the perspectives of high-level industry professionals. Design/methodology/approach In-depth interviews were conducted with 24 industry executives representing 21 global companies. Participants had an average of 26 years of industry experience and held titles ranging from president and CEO to senior vice president. Findings Thematic analysis of the data through the conceptual lens of the natural resource based view of the firm theory revealed five emergent themes, which, when posed as questions, offer critical and reflective insights into the issues that inhibit industry change. The first theme – Where to begin? – reflects conflicting views about whether demand or supply is at the root of the industry's unsustainable pace. Differing views on what sustainability means are presented in the theme ‘What, exactly, are we talking about?’ The theme ‘Who, exactly, is in charge?’ reflects on where the power to create necessary change actually rests. The theme ‘How can I?’ highlights the dominant role that profit margins play in companies' decisions, thereby inhibiting potential investment in sustainability-related strategic initiatives. The final theme of ‘What future?’ reveals how participants struggled to envision a better future for the industry. Originality/value Based on the findings, white space opportunities for transitioning the fashion industry and marketplace are discussed, highlighting pathways for meaningful and transformative change.