Bioactive Rocket (Eruca vesicaria subsp. sativa (Mill.) Hegi) Sprout Extracts: LC-MS Profiling and Skin-Protective Antioxidant and Enzyme Inhibitory Activities

Eruca vesicaria subsp. sativa (rocket) sprouts are a rich source of bioactive compounds used in cosmetics. Phytochemical profiling (LC-PDA-MS/MS) of 5-day-old sprouts identified 26 metabolites, mainly glucosinolates (e.g., glucoraphanin and glucoerucin) and flavonol glycosides of quercetin and kaempferol. The extracts exhibited strong antioxidant activity in DPPH•, ABTS•+, and ferric-reducing assays and moderate, dose-dependent inhibition of skin-degrading enzymes: tyrosinase, elastase, and collagenase, suggesting anti-wrinkle and skin-brightening effects. Cytotoxicity assays on human BJ skin fibroblasts demonstrated that the rocket sprout extracts were non-cytotoxic at concentrations up to 125 µg/mL, with low-dose treatments enhancing the cell viability. Hemocompatibility tests confirmed safety, with <2% hemolysis observed. The incorporation of these compounds into model emulsions yielded stable formulations over 90 days. These findings support the novelty of rocket sprout extracts as functional/nutricosmetic ingredients with relevance to both food and skin health.