Exploring weave colour quality through the optical mixing of CMY and achromatic yarns in woven artworks

Reproduction of multi-coloured artworks remains challenging in weaving due to limited coloured-yarns available in production. Previous research demonstrated similarities between CMYK system and optical yarn colour mixing when pairs of cyan [C], magenta [M], yellow [Y], and black [K] were combined. However, gaps remain in understanding chroma control, particularly the use of achromatic yarns (black [K], grey [Gr], white [Wh]) and optical effects of three-way combinations (e.g., [C]+[M]+[Y]). Therefore, this study examines chroma modulation to understand juxtaposed coloured-yarns effects when three primaries are interwoven with achromatic yarns as well as the optical behaviour of triadic ([C]+[M]+[Y]) weaves, which serves as a critical reference for improving reproduction quality. Prototype experiments showed achromatic yarns modulate chromaticity, while triadic combinations struggle to produce saturated black hues. Findings were applied to reproduce a complex multi-coloured Jacquard artwork, validating the prototype results. The study details weaving experiments and demonstrates practical application for simulating complex artworks.

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Publication Details

Journal
Journal of the Textile Institute
Published
2026-07-16
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2026.2701512
Primary Topic
Cultural Heritage Materials Analysis
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
0.00

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article

Exploring weave colour quality through the optical mixing of CMY and achromatic yarns in woven artworks

Ken Ri Kim, Lei Zeng
Journal of the Textile Institute
Cultural Heritage Materials Analysis
article

Exploring weave colour quality through the optical mixing of CMY and achromatic yarns in woven artworks

Ken Ri Kim, Lei Zeng
article en

Abstract

Reproduction of multi-coloured artworks remains challenging in weaving due to limited coloured-yarns available in production. Previous research demonstrated similarities between CMYK system and optical yarn colour mixing when pairs of cyan [C], magenta [M], yellow [Y], and black [K] were combined. However, gaps remain in understanding chroma control, particularly the use of achromatic yarns (black [K], grey [Gr], white [Wh]) and optical effects of three-way combinations (e.g., [C]+[M]+[Y]). Therefore, this study examines chroma modulation to understand juxtaposed coloured-yarns effects when three primaries are interwoven with achromatic yarns as well as the optical behaviour of triadic ([C]+[M]+[Y]) weaves, which serves as a critical reference for improving reproduction quality. Prototype experiments showed achromatic yarns modulate chromaticity, while triadic combinations struggle to produce saturated black hues. Findings were applied to reproduce a complex multi-coloured Jacquard artwork, validating the prototype results. The study details weaving experiments and demonstrates practical application for simulating complex artworks.

Journal of the Textile Institute
Loughborough University (GB), University of Manchester (GB)
Arts and Humanities Research Council
Openalex Percentile: Top 4%
Cultural Heritage Materials Analysis
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