Rapid Changes in Ocean Surface Waves Across the Eye of Hurricane Milton (2024)

Abstract Two wave buoys deployed in the direct path of Hurricane Milton show a remarkable reduction in significant wave height and peak wave period as the eye of the storm passes and wind speeds are briefly reduced. The rapid adjustment of the waves to the lower wind speeds is initially unexpected, but is explained by the observed changes in the scalar and directional spectra. The scalar spectra show saturation of the high frequency tail in all regions (and at all wind speeds). The directional spectra confirm the radiation of low frequency energy outwards from the storm, such that the most energetic waves never propagate into the eye. Existing parametric models for wave development confirm that waves outside of the eye experience enhanced fetch associated with the translation speed and size of the storm. Inside the eye, the waves are consistent with the fully developed limit at the locally reduced wind speed.