From Collagen Colour to Collagen Biology: An Integrated Framework for Dermal Remodelling Assessment

Age-related deterioration of the dermal extracellular matrix is driven primarily by fibroblast dysfunction, leading to loss of collagen integrity, elasticity, and structural support. In aesthetic dermatology, injectable and biostimulatory interventions increasingly target qualitative dermal remodelling, with collagen reorganisation widely adopted as a histological endpoint. Picrosirius red (PSR) staining under polarised light remains the most frequently used method for visualising collagen architecture; however, its birefringence colour patterns are often misinterpreted as proxies for collagen subtype shifts, particularly between types I and III. This conceptual review examines the methodological basis of such interpretations. We summarise the biological roles of major dermal collagens and compare current histochemical, immunohistochemical, ultrastructural and molecular methods for collagen assessment. We propose an interpretative framework that separates architectural collagen remodelling from molecular collagen synthesis and addresses the temporal dissociation between early fibre reorganisation and later subtype-specific expression as a plausible explanation for between-study discrepancies. Practical guidance is provided to support responsible interpretation and reporting of PSR-based collagen analyses. PSR is best regarded as a complementary tool for assessing collagen architecture rather than a definitive method for collagen subtype identification.

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Publication Details

Journal
Cosmetics
Published
2026-06-18
DOI
https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030157
Primary Topic
Dermatologic Treatments and Research
Type
article
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From Collagen Colour to Collagen Biology: An Integrated Framework for Dermal Remodelling Assessment

M. Basso, Francesco Marchetti, Maurizio Cavallini, Giuseppe Colombo et al.
Cosmetics
Dermatologic Treatments and Research
article

From Collagen Colour to Collagen Biology: An Integrated Framework for Dermal Remodelling Assessment

M. Basso, Francesco Marchetti, Maurizio Cavallini, Giuseppe Colombo, Dissapong Panithaporn
article en

Abstract

Age-related deterioration of the dermal extracellular matrix is driven primarily by fibroblast dysfunction, leading to loss of collagen integrity, elasticity, and structural support. In aesthetic dermatology, injectable and biostimulatory interventions increasingly target qualitative dermal remodelling, with collagen reorganisation widely adopted as a histological endpoint. Picrosirius red (PSR) staining under polarised light remains the most frequently used method for visualising collagen architecture; however, its birefringence colour patterns are often misinterpreted as proxies for collagen subtype shifts, particularly between types I and III. This conceptual review examines the methodological basis of such interpretations. We summarise the biological roles of major dermal collagens and compare current histochemical, immunohistochemical, ultrastructural and molecular methods for collagen assessment. We propose an interpretative framework that separates architectural collagen remodelling from molecular collagen synthesis and addresses the temporal dissociation between early fibre reorganisation and later subtype-specific expression as a plausible explanation for between-study discrepancies. Practical guidance is provided to support responsible interpretation and reporting of PSR-based collagen analyses. PSR is best regarded as a complementary tool for assessing collagen architecture rather than a definitive method for collagen subtype identification.

CosmeticsVol. 13(3)
Istituto Nazionale di Fisica Nucleare, Galileo Galilei Institute for Theoretical Physics (IT), Bangkok Hospital (TH), Italian Society of Physiotherapy (IT), Casa di Cura Villa Garda (IT), Clinica Luganese Moncucco (CH)
Sustainable cities and communities
Openalex Percentile: Top 5%
Dermatologic Treatments and Research
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