Seaweed-Derived Extract Targets Porphyr’ageing to Modulate the Visible Signs of Aging in Human Skin

Recent evidence suggests that microbiota-derived porphyrins contribute to skin aging, a phenomenon termed porphyr’aging. These pro-inflammatory molecules alter the expression of genes involved in senescence, trigger melanogenesis, and decrease collagen I synthesis in skin. The aim of this study was to evaluate the anti-aging properties of an upcycled Laminaria hyperborea extract (LHE) targeting bacterial porphyrins discovered after screening. The impact of LHE on porphyrin biosynthesis and on melanogenesis and wrinkles was evaluated using in vitro and ex vivo tests and by conducting a double-blinded vs. placebo clinical trial. LHE significantly reduced coproporphyrin III production in Gram-positive skin bacteria and significantly decreased porphyrin levels in vivo at the skin surface. This activity was supported by a specific composition of LHE, comprising laminaran and mannitol. It also significantly decreased melanin content in skin explants and pigmentation in the clinical study (−5.9%). This effect was particularly pronounced in dark spots (ITA +39.9%), and the number of precursor spots also decreased (−6.9%). In addition, LHE significantly stimulated type I α-1 pro-collagen production in fibroblasts and increased collagen I and elastin expression in skin explants. These results were consistent with the clinical study, showing significant reductions in wrinkle number (−9.8%) and area (−5.8%). These findings suggest that targeting microbiota-derived porphyrins and their consequences may represent a promising approach to reduce the visible signs of aging.