Revealing Coastal Storm‐Wave Transformations From SWOT HR Observation: The English Channel Case Study

Abstract Swell propagation and transformation across variable bathymetry and coastal obstacles fundamentally control nearshore wave energy redistribution, sediment transport, and shoreline evolution. Conventional satellite altimetry cannot adequately resolve these dynamics, particularly refraction and diffraction as swell transition into shallow waters. Leveraging high‐rate (HR) observations from the Surface Water and Ocean Topography (SWOT) mission, we present the first spaceborne measurements of nearshore‐coastal wave transformation at sub‐kilometric scales. SWOT HR observations over the English Channel during Storm Mathis reveal wavelength shortening, directional shift and distinctive fan‐shaped diffraction patterns, including a 27.5° island‐induced diffraction signal undetected by operational models. Comparisons with in situ measurements and the Atlantic‐European Northwest Shelf (NWShelf) Reanalysis, a regional configuration of the WAVEWATCH III spectral wave model, validate the robustness of the SWOT‐derived wave parameters. This finding establishes SWOT HR data as a new observational capability for quantifying wave‐bathymetry interactions and the resultant redistribution of wave energy that conventional altimetry fails to resolve.

Authors

Institutions

Publication Details

Journal
Geophysical Research Letters
Published
2026-05-31
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1029/2025gl121115
Primary Topic
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
0.00
Controls
|||
ALL TIME
JAN
FEB
MAR
APR
MAY
JUN
JUL
AUG
SEP
OCT
article

Revealing Coastal Storm‐Wave Transformations From SWOT HR Observation: The English Channel Case Study

Xavier Chartrand, Carlos López Solano, Imen Turki, Laurent Froideval et al.
Geophysical Research Letters
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
article

Revealing Coastal Storm‐Wave Transformations From SWOT HR Observation: The English Channel Case Study

Xavier Chartrand, Carlos López Solano, Imen Turki, Laurent Froideval, Nicolas Picot, Erwin W. J. BERGSMA, Md Saiful Islam, Pascal Matte, Benoit Laignel
article en

Abstract

Abstract Swell propagation and transformation across variable bathymetry and coastal obstacles fundamentally control nearshore wave energy redistribution, sediment transport, and shoreline evolution. Conventional satellite altimetry cannot adequately resolve these dynamics, particularly refraction and diffraction as swell transition into shallow waters. Leveraging high‐rate (HR) observations from the Surface Water and Ocean Topography (SWOT) mission, we present the first spaceborne measurements of nearshore‐coastal wave transformation at sub‐kilometric scales. SWOT HR observations over the English Channel during Storm Mathis reveal wavelength shortening, directional shift and distinctive fan‐shaped diffraction patterns, including a 27.5° island‐induced diffraction signal undetected by operational models. Comparisons with in situ measurements and the Atlantic‐European Northwest Shelf (NWShelf) Reanalysis, a regional configuration of the WAVEWATCH III spectral wave model, validate the robustness of the SWOT‐derived wave parameters. This finding establishes SWOT HR data as a new observational capability for quantifying wave‐bathymetry interactions and the resultant redistribution of wave energy that conventional altimetry fails to resolve.

Geophysical Research LettersVol. 53(11)
Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (FR), Environment and Climate Change Canada (CA), Université du Québec à Rimouski (CA), European Space Agency (FR), Normandie Université (FR), National Space Agency (MY), Université de Rouen Normandie (FR)
Life below water
Openalex Percentile: Top 6%
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
AI Navigator

Ask Laika to Summarize, Analyze, and Connect papers live on the map.

Summarize Papers & Methodologies

Extract key findings, datasets, and comparative methods across publications.

Benchmark Rankings & Visual Analytics

Rank top research institutions, authors, funders, topics, and journals by Field-Weighted Citation Impact (FWCI) and paper volume with instant charts.

Connect Distant Disciplines

Bridge topological clusters on the map to find hidden collaborative intersections.