FORMULATION AND EVALUATION OF A POLYHERBAL LIP SCRUB: A SYSTEMATIC APPROACH TO PHYSICOCHEMICAL OPTIMIZATION AND SAFETY ASSESSMENT

Background and Rationale: Herbal cosmetics have attracted considerable scientific and commercial attention as alternatives to synthetic personal care products. The lip mucosa is anatomically distinct, lacking sebaceous glands and a conventional stratum corneum, rendering it highly susceptible to dehydration, photodamage, and hyperpigmentation. Lip scrubs represent a clinically meaningful cosmetic category, simultaneously providing mechanical exfoliation and emollient protection. Polyherbal formulations, guided by the Ayurvedic principle of synergism, offer multifunctional cosmetic benefits while minimizing the risk of adverse reactions. Objectives: The study aimed to (1) develop a stable polyherbal lip scrub using beetroot powder (Beta vulgaris), petroleum jelly, beeswax, sugar, orange essential oil, and vitamin E oil via the fusion method; (2) evaluate physicochemical, organoleptic, and safety parameters across seventeen systematically designed formulation batches; (3) identify the optimized formulation; and (4) assess short-term stability at 25°C and 40°C for 30 days. Methods: Seventeen batches (F1–F17) were prepared by varying ingredient concentrations within predefined ranges. Formulations were characterized for color, odor, texture, consistency, pH, spreadability, washability, homogeneity, and irritation potential. Stability was evaluated at Day 0, Day 15, and Day 30 under ambient and accelerated conditions. Results: All batches demonstrated acceptable physicochemical properties. Batch F17 — containing beetroot powder (2.0 g), petroleum jelly (12.0 g), beeswax (3.0 g), sugar (7.0 g), orange essential oil (1.0 mL), and vitamin E oil (0.5 mL) — was identified as the optimized formulation. It displayed reddish-pink coloration, pleasant citrus aroma, smooth texture with mild grittiness, semi-solid consistency, pH 6.0 ± 0.05, spread diameter of 3.8 cm, and easy washability. No cutaneous irritation was observed in ten human volunteers at 24 or 48 hours. The formulation remained stable at 25°C throughout the study period. Conclusion: The polyherbal lip scrub (F17) demonstrated excellent physicochemical, sensory, and safety characteristics, with synergistic contributions from each ingredient. This natural, biodegradable formulation shows strong potential as a safe and commercially viable lip care cosmetic.