A brief historical overview of the tie-dyeing method and brown printed silk in the Tang Dynasty

This study unveils how the Tang Dynasty is widely known as a golden age of Chinese civilization, the period of economic prosperity, cultural liberalism, and artistic creativity. One of its artistic accomplishments was through textiles—tie-dyeing, which became an elegant art. This paper also discusses the history of tie-dyeing and printed silk, its cultural meaning and artistic importance in the Tang Dynasty with emphasis particularly on brown printed silk and natural dyeing processes. It also looks at the application of these textiles not merely as objects of decoration but also as important cultural artifacts that represent social status, identity and intercultural communication. The foundations of the methods of resist-dyeing including jiao xie (tie-dye) and paste-resist dyeing, as the ways to create intricate patterns and vivid coloured dyes with the help of natural materials, are examined based on historical records, archaeological evidences, and literature. These methods demonstrate the technological ingenuity of Tang handicraft and the use of natural dyes of plants, minerals, and insects. The paper also assumes how the use of textile motifs, colours and materials contributed to cultural meaning, such as religion, hierarchy and art. In addition to the fact that the Tang textile production is put in a greater context of cultural exchange, particularly with the Silk Road and the contact with other areas via Japan and Central Asia. Such interactions aided the diffusion of technologies of dyeing, artistic pattern, and cloth culture outside of the Chinese people. Through a comparison of Tang textile practices with subsequent ones, such as late Qing mud-treated silks, the study has pointed to the continuity and the change of the textile practices in the history of Chinese fashion. Moreover, this study claims that Tang Dynasty fabrics can be regarded as a synthesis of artistic imagination, improvisational technology, and culture. Tie-dyeing and printed silk fabrics marked social identity, cultural heritage that impacted the world textiles traditions in the history of art, culture and design.

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Publication Details

Journal
Humanities and Social Sciences Communications
Published
2026-05-18
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1057/s41599-026-07149-4
Primary Topic
Silk-based biomaterials and applications
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
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article

A brief historical overview of the tie-dyeing method and brown printed silk in the Tang Dynasty

Meini Xiong, Weiliang Wang
Humanities and Social Sciences Communications
Silk-based biomaterials and applications
article

A brief historical overview of the tie-dyeing method and brown printed silk in the Tang Dynasty

Meini Xiong, Weiliang Wang
article en

Abstract

This study unveils how the Tang Dynasty is widely known as a golden age of Chinese civilization, the period of economic prosperity, cultural liberalism, and artistic creativity. One of its artistic accomplishments was through textiles—tie-dyeing, which became an elegant art. This paper also discusses the history of tie-dyeing and printed silk, its cultural meaning and artistic importance in the Tang Dynasty with emphasis particularly on brown printed silk and natural dyeing processes. It also looks at the application of these textiles not merely as objects of decoration but also as important cultural artifacts that represent social status, identity and intercultural communication. The foundations of the methods of resist-dyeing including jiao xie (tie-dye) and paste-resist dyeing, as the ways to create intricate patterns and vivid coloured dyes with the help of natural materials, are examined based on historical records, archaeological evidences, and literature. These methods demonstrate the technological ingenuity of Tang handicraft and the use of natural dyes of plants, minerals, and insects. The paper also assumes how the use of textile motifs, colours and materials contributed to cultural meaning, such as religion, hierarchy and art. In addition to the fact that the Tang textile production is put in a greater context of cultural exchange, particularly with the Silk Road and the contact with other areas via Japan and Central Asia. Such interactions aided the diffusion of technologies of dyeing, artistic pattern, and cloth culture outside of the Chinese people. Through a comparison of Tang textile practices with subsequent ones, such as late Qing mud-treated silks, the study has pointed to the continuity and the change of the textile practices in the history of Chinese fashion. Moreover, this study claims that Tang Dynasty fabrics can be regarded as a synthesis of artistic imagination, improvisational technology, and culture. Tie-dyeing and printed silk fabrics marked social identity, cultural heritage that impacted the world textiles traditions in the history of art, culture and design.

Humanities and Social Sciences Communications
Beihua University (CN), Northeast Agricultural University (CN)
Openalex Percentile: Top 10%
Silk-based biomaterials and applications
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