Kinematics of gravity–capillary waves above an evolving underwater current

We perform direct numerical simulations of continuously growing broadband surface waves forced by a turbulent atmospheric boundary layer coupled with a developing underwater current. We resolve and analyse the multiscale space–time evolution of the waves by considering the wave spectrum in frequency and wavenumber space and describe the kinematics of nonlinear gravity–capillary waves under a current initially described by a viscous boundary layer and transitioning to turbulence at later times under the wind-wave forcing. The wave speed experiences a scale-dependent Doppler shift, with shorter waves shifted by currents closer to the surface, in agreement with the framework from Stewart & Joy (1974 Deep Sea Res. Oceanogr. Abstracts 21(12), 1039–1049). At low wave slopes, the wave energy concentrates along the linear dispersion relation. When the wave slope is high enough, we observe wave energy located in multiple branches associated with nonlinear bound harmonics travelling at the speed of a carrier mode. These nonlinear branches are well described by a generalized nonlinear dispersion relation that links each harmonic to the effective velocity of the carrier mode to which they are bound, and are found to be Doppler shifted with the carrier mode. The generalized Doppler-shifted nonlinear dispersion relation remains valid as the underwater current becomes turbulent, and the depth-varying mean current profile can be systematically reconstructed from the measured phase velocities from waves at different scales.

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Publication Details

Journal
Journal of Fluid Mechanics
Published
2026-05-14
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2026.11523
Primary Topic
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
Type
article
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article

Kinematics of gravity–capillary waves above an evolving underwater current

Jiarong Wu, Luc Deike, Nicolò Scapin, Stéphane Popinet et al.
Journal of Fluid Mechanics
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
article

Kinematics of gravity–capillary waves above an evolving underwater current

Jiarong Wu, Luc Deike, Nicolò Scapin, Stéphane Popinet, J. Thomas Farrar, Bertrand Chapron, Clara Martin-Blanco
article en

Abstract

We perform direct numerical simulations of continuously growing broadband surface waves forced by a turbulent atmospheric boundary layer coupled with a developing underwater current. We resolve and analyse the multiscale space–time evolution of the waves by considering the wave spectrum in frequency and wavenumber space and describe the kinematics of nonlinear gravity–capillary waves under a current initially described by a viscous boundary layer and transitioning to turbulence at later times under the wind-wave forcing. The wave speed experiences a scale-dependent Doppler shift, with shorter waves shifted by currents closer to the surface, in agreement with the framework from Stewart & Joy (1974 Deep Sea Res. Oceanogr. Abstracts 21(12), 1039–1049). At low wave slopes, the wave energy concentrates along the linear dispersion relation. When the wave slope is high enough, we observe wave energy located in multiple branches associated with nonlinear bound harmonics travelling at the speed of a carrier mode. These nonlinear branches are well described by a generalized nonlinear dispersion relation that links each harmonic to the effective velocity of the carrier mode to which they are bound, and are found to be Doppler shifted with the carrier mode. The generalized Doppler-shifted nonlinear dispersion relation remains valid as the underwater current becomes turbulent, and the depth-varying mean current profile can be systematically reconstructed from the measured phase velocities from waves at different scales.

Journal of Fluid MechanicsVol. 1035
Ifremer (FR), Princeton University (US), Institut Jean Le Rond d'Alembert (FR), New York University (US), Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution (US)
Life below water
Openalex Percentile: Top 5%
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
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