Sandy beaches' chaos: shoreline-sandbar coupling inferred from observational time series

Abstract. Sandy shoreline–sandbar systems exhibit complex variability arising from the interplay between hydrodynamic forcing and intrinsic morphological feedbacks. Using long-term satellite-derived shoreline and sandbar observations, we applied global polynomial modeling to reconstruct low-dimensional deterministic dynamics for 4 contrasting coastal sites. The resulting autonomous models reproduce key morphodynamic features, including self-sustained shoreline oscillations, shoreline–sandbar coupling, and intermittent transitions between quasi-stable configurations. Nonlinear stability analyses reveal that these systems behave as chaotic oscillators, characterized by locally divergent yet globally bounded trajectories. Energetic episodes correspond to rapid shoreline–sandbar exchanges, whereas long low-energy states reflect stable attractor confinement. Together, these results demonstrate that sandy coasts are governed by deterministic but chaotic dynamics, in which internal coupling and self-organization control both variability and finite predictability. The proposed framework offers a physically consistent and data-driven approach to characterize and compare coastal morphodynamics within a unified nonlinear dynamical perspective.

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Publication Details

Journal
Nonlinear processes in geophysics
Published
2026-04-21
DOI
https://doi.org/10.5194/npg-33-197-2026
Primary Topic
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
Type
article
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article

Sandy beaches' chaos: shoreline-sandbar coupling inferred from observational time series

Marcan Graffin, Rafaël Almar, Marius Aparicio, Sylvain Mangiarotti et al.
Nonlinear processes in geophysics
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
article

Sandy beaches' chaos: shoreline-sandbar coupling inferred from observational time series

Marcan Graffin, Rafaël Almar, Marius Aparicio, Sylvain Mangiarotti, Salomé Frugier, Laurent Lacaze
article en

Abstract

Abstract. Sandy shoreline–sandbar systems exhibit complex variability arising from the interplay between hydrodynamic forcing and intrinsic morphological feedbacks. Using long-term satellite-derived shoreline and sandbar observations, we applied global polynomial modeling to reconstruct low-dimensional deterministic dynamics for 4 contrasting coastal sites. The resulting autonomous models reproduce key morphodynamic features, including self-sustained shoreline oscillations, shoreline–sandbar coupling, and intermittent transitions between quasi-stable configurations. Nonlinear stability analyses reveal that these systems behave as chaotic oscillators, characterized by locally divergent yet globally bounded trajectories. Energetic episodes correspond to rapid shoreline–sandbar exchanges, whereas long low-energy states reflect stable attractor confinement. Together, these results demonstrate that sandy coasts are governed by deterministic but chaotic dynamics, in which internal coupling and self-organization control both variability and finite predictability. The proposed framework offers a physically consistent and data-driven approach to characterize and compare coastal morphodynamics within a unified nonlinear dynamical perspective.

Nonlinear processes in geophysicsVol. 33(2)
Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (FR), Université Fédérale de Toulouse Midi-Pyrénées (FR), Institut National de Recherche pour l'Agriculture, l'Alimentation et l'Environnement (FR), Toulouse Mathematics Institute (FR), Centre d'Études Spatiales de la Biosphère (FR), Institut de Mécanique des Fluides de Toulouse (FR), Laboratoire d’Études en Géophysique et Océanographie Spatiales (FR), Institut de Recherche pour le Développement (FR)
Life below water
Openalex Percentile: Top 16%
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
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