Preparation of Water-Based Polyurethane Film Formers with Degradability and Active Ingredient Delivery Capabilities and Their Application in Makeup Setting Products

To develop cosmetic film-forming agents that combine sustainability with functionality, this study synthesized a series of bio-based polyols using epoxidized soybean oil (ESO) as raw material through acid-catalyzed ring-opening reactions. These polyols partially replaced petroleum-based polyols and reacted with isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI). By incorporating β-cyclodextrin (β-CD), a water-based polyurethane (CPS-ESO) was successfully developed that combines degradability with active ingredient delivery capability. Experiments demonstrated that the resulting CPS-M film exhibits excellent water repellency (contact angle 66.7°), mechanical properties (tensile strength 14.21 MPa, elongation at break 229.42%), adhesion (Level 0), and breathability, while displaying controllable degradation behavior under both enzymatic and alkaline hydrolysis conditions. Due to the cavity structure of β-cyclodextrin, this material efficiently loaded resveratrol (RES) at a loading rate of 0.16%. Formulated into a setting spray (F1), the product demonstrated outstanding makeup longevity (lowest ΔE value after water/sweat immersion), anti-friction performance (ΔE value after friction only one-third of the control group), and antioxidant activity (DPPH scavenging rate of 86.25%), with RES remaining stable under high-temperature storage conditions. This study provides new insights for designing green multifunctional cosmetic film-forming agents.