Hydroquinone‐Free, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate Antioxidant Serum for Hyperpigmented and Photodamaged Skin to Achieve Skin Health

BACKGROUND: Ascorbic acid (AA) has protective and corrective functions critical for counteracting extrinsic and intrinsic skin aging and hyperpigmentation, but it is highly unstable, making it challenging to formulate into skincare products. Tetrahexyldecyl (THD) Ascorbate, a lipid-soluble derivative of AA, has superior stability and skin-mimicking properties. AIMS: To investigate the efficacy and tolerability of a novel antioxidant serum containing 30% THD Ascorbate (THD-AA serum), a patent-pending blend of antioxidants and prebiotics, on photoaged and hyperpigmented skin with respect to long-term skin health. METHODS: Using preclinical models and a randomized, double-blind clinical trial, the antioxidant potential, antimelanogenesis, and antiaging properties of the THD-AA serum were evaluated. RESULTS: Using an in vitro tissue model exposed to blue light, there was an 88% reduction in reactive oxygen species (ROS) formation after 30 min, 87% reduction after 60 min, and an 82% reduction after 120 min compared to the blue light-exposed control. Melanin production was reduced by 24% in vitro tissue co-culture. THD-AA serum improved the structural architecture of the skin, including the epidermis, dermal-epidermal junction, and dermis, and upregulated dermal collagen production 4-fold compared to a controlled moisturizer in an ex vivo model. In the clinical trial, existing damage and hyperpigmentation were visibly corrected on VISIA-CR and Antera 3D photographs, as well as in Clinical Grader results. There were no adverse events, and participants tolerated the serum well. CONCLUSIONS: THD-AA serum has clinical and molecular efficacy in buffering ROS, reducing melanogenesis, and promoting antiaging, providing a safe alternative to hydroquinone products.