Generating intermittent breaking waves using a momentum source in two-fluid simulations

• A robust and effective numerical method for intermittently generating breaking waves. • A momentum-source approach is developed to generate linear, nonlinear, and breaking waves in two-fluid simulations. • A local-minimum-triggered source increases breaking probability from 5% to 14% without increasing forcing strength. • Three-dimensional results yield breaking statistics and effective steepness consistent with field observations. • The method reproduces the equilibrium low-wavenumber wave spectrum, capturing realistic breaking-wave dynamics. We propose a robust and effective numerical method for intermittently generating waves in two-fluid simulations. The method introduces a source term into the momentum equation to generate linear waves, whose magnitude is analytically derived to obtain a target wave amplitude and numerically verified using a computational two-fluid solver. Breaking waves are then produced by increasing the strength of the momentum source. Two-dimensional simulations show that imposing a large momentum source on linear wave consistently leads to wave breaking. In contrast, when the same momentum source is applied to a nonlinear wave field with a continuous spectrum, breaking does not occur sometimes. On the basis of an analysis of the evolution of the dominant wave steepness, we introduce a local-minimum-triggered source (LMSrc) method, where the momentum source is precisely applied when the dominant wave steepness reaches a local minimum. This adaptive strategy increases the probability of wave breaking from 5% to 14% without changing the source magnitude or forcing frequency. Finally, we extend the study to three-dimensional simulations and calibrate the wave-breaking probability P b and the effective breaking wave steepness ϵ b ˜ across various momentum source strengths. The obtained P b and ϵ b ˜ values fall within the ranges of field observations, and the averaged wave spectrum agrees with the equilibrium sea surface spectrum for wind-generated waves in the low-wavenumber range.

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Publication Details

Journal
Ocean Engineering
Published
2026-04-03
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.oceaneng.2026.125213
Primary Topic
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
0.00

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article

Generating intermittent breaking waves using a momentum source in two-fluid simulations

Bing-Qing Deng, Zixuan Yang
Ocean Engineering
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
article

Generating intermittent breaking waves using a momentum source in two-fluid simulations

Bing-Qing Deng, Zixuan Yang
article en

Abstract

• A robust and effective numerical method for intermittently generating breaking waves. • A momentum-source approach is developed to generate linear, nonlinear, and breaking waves in two-fluid simulations. • A local-minimum-triggered source increases breaking probability from 5% to 14% without increasing forcing strength. • Three-dimensional results yield breaking statistics and effective steepness consistent with field observations. • The method reproduces the equilibrium low-wavenumber wave spectrum, capturing realistic breaking-wave dynamics. We propose a robust and effective numerical method for intermittently generating waves in two-fluid simulations. The method introduces a source term into the momentum equation to generate linear waves, whose magnitude is analytically derived to obtain a target wave amplitude and numerically verified using a computational two-fluid solver. Breaking waves are then produced by increasing the strength of the momentum source. Two-dimensional simulations show that imposing a large momentum source on linear wave consistently leads to wave breaking. In contrast, when the same momentum source is applied to a nonlinear wave field with a continuous spectrum, breaking does not occur sometimes. On the basis of an analysis of the evolution of the dominant wave steepness, we introduce a local-minimum-triggered source (LMSrc) method, where the momentum source is precisely applied when the dominant wave steepness reaches a local minimum. This adaptive strategy increases the probability of wave breaking from 5% to 14% without changing the source magnitude or forcing frequency. Finally, we extend the study to three-dimensional simulations and calibrate the wave-breaking probability P b and the effective breaking wave steepness ϵ b ˜ across various momentum source strengths. The obtained P b and ϵ b ˜ values fall within the ranges of field observations, and the averaged wave spectrum agrees with the equilibrium sea surface spectrum for wind-generated waves in the low-wavenumber range.

Ocean EngineeringVol. 356
Institute of Mechanics (CN), University of Chinese Academy of Sciences (CN)
National Natural Science Foundation of China, Chinese Academy of Sciences, China Postdoctoral Science Foundation
Openalex Percentile: Top 20%
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
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