Multi-site assessment of microtidal wave-dominated active beach state and morpho-sedimentary parameters using optical satellite imagery

Traditionally, beach states are defined from visual observations, in-situ measurements and/or video imagery, which limits their application to a handful of well-instrumented sites. In this work, we propose a different approach by focusing on a remotely observable quantity: the cross-shore distance between the offshore wave-breaking and the shoreline position, denoted [Formula: see text]. This metric defines the active beach state, capturing where waves dissipate energy relative to the underlying morphology. Using 10 years of Sentinel-2 imagery, [Formula: see text] is evaluated across 30 wave-dominated microtidal sandy beaches spanning reflective to fully dissipative conditions. The metric reproduces the structure of classical beach state frameworks and enables classification into five active states (R, LTT, TBR/RBB, LBT, and D) using transferable thresholds. [Formula: see text] is continuous, thus it also reveals how beach state evolve through time, allowing quantification of state occurrence, residence time, and transitions, with seasonal variability consistent with independent classifications at well-studied sites. Furthermore, using empirical relationships, we demonstrate that [Formula: see text] carries first-order information about beach-face slope ([Formula: see text]) and sediment grain size ([Formula: see text]), opening a pathway toward systematic satellite-based monitoring of coastal morphodynamics at regional to global scales.

Authors

Institutions

Publication Details

Journal
Scientific Reports
Published
2026-03-27
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-026-45638-3
Primary Topic
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
0.00
Controls
|||
ALL TIME
JAN
FEB
MAR
APR
MAY
JUN
JUL
AUG
SEP
OCT
article

Multi-site assessment of microtidal wave-dominated active beach state and morpho-sedimentary parameters using optical satellite imagery

Marcan Graffin, Erwin W. J. BERGSMA, Gerben Ruessink, Salomé Frugier et al.
Scientific Reports
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
article

Multi-site assessment of microtidal wave-dominated active beach state and morpho-sedimentary parameters using optical satellite imagery

Marcan Graffin, Erwin W. J. BERGSMA, Gerben Ruessink, Salomé Frugier, Rafael Almar
article en

Abstract

Traditionally, beach states are defined from visual observations, in-situ measurements and/or video imagery, which limits their application to a handful of well-instrumented sites. In this work, we propose a different approach by focusing on a remotely observable quantity: the cross-shore distance between the offshore wave-breaking and the shoreline position, denoted [Formula: see text]. This metric defines the active beach state, capturing where waves dissipate energy relative to the underlying morphology. Using 10 years of Sentinel-2 imagery, [Formula: see text] is evaluated across 30 wave-dominated microtidal sandy beaches spanning reflective to fully dissipative conditions. The metric reproduces the structure of classical beach state frameworks and enables classification into five active states (R, LTT, TBR/RBB, LBT, and D) using transferable thresholds. [Formula: see text] is continuous, thus it also reveals how beach state evolve through time, allowing quantification of state occurrence, residence time, and transitions, with seasonal variability consistent with independent classifications at well-studied sites. Furthermore, using empirical relationships, we demonstrate that [Formula: see text] carries first-order information about beach-face slope ([Formula: see text]) and sediment grain size ([Formula: see text]), opening a pathway toward systematic satellite-based monitoring of coastal morphodynamics at regional to global scales.

Scientific Reports
Utrecht University (NL), Centre National d'Études Spatiales (FR), Laboratoire d’Études en Géophysique et Océanographie Spatiales (FR)
Life below water
Openalex Percentile: Top 4%
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
AI Navigator

Ask Laika to Summarize, Analyze, and Connect papers live on the map.

Summarize Papers & Methodologies

Extract key findings, datasets, and comparative methods across publications.

Benchmark Rankings & Visual Analytics

Rank top research institutions, authors, funders, topics, and journals by Field-Weighted Citation Impact (FWCI) and paper volume with instant charts.

Connect Distant Disciplines

Bridge topological clusters on the map to find hidden collaborative intersections.