Resilience for you, vulnerability for me: lessons to build a resilient, equitable, and sustainable global apparel supply chain

Purpose The COVID-19 pandemic revealed the acute vulnerability of the global apparel supply chain. While the industry showed capacity to recover, resilience practices often protected some actors while shifting risks onto others. This research examines how resilience practices were perceived across brands, manufacturers, and suppliers, and how these affected workers in developing countries. By analysing vulnerability factors, resilience capabilities, and strategies, the article contributes to building an apparel supply chain that is not only resilient but also equitable and sustainable. Design/methodology/approach We adopted a qualitative, interpretive case study. Semi-structured interviews were conducted with 12 influential stakeholders representing brands, manufacturers, sector associations, and international organisations. Data were inductively coded to explore perceptions of vulnerabilities, responses, and resilience practices during and after COVID-19. Findings The impacts of COVID-19 were unevenly distributed. Brands and retailers absorbed shocks by cancelling orders, deferring payments, or demanding discounts, creating severe consequences for apparel manufacturers and workers. Manufacturers demonstrated adaptability, diversification, and digital innovation, yet these capabilities only partially offset cascading vulnerabilities. Findings emphasise that resilience for one tier often becomes vulnerability for another. Practical implications The research provides guidance for managers and policymakers. Brands and retailers must strengthen collaborative governance, responsible sourcing, and end-to-end visibility while manufacturers and suppliers should pursue digitalisation, diversification and agility to sustain operations. Originality/value Unlike previous studies centred on workers' experiences, this research captures expert perspectives across tiers, offering systemic insights into resilience as a relational and distributive process. It advances a framework where resilience is measured not only by recovery but also by equity and justice.