Biodegradation of cotton cellulose in terrestrial conditions: influence of abiotic factors and structural analysis

Abstract The absence of dedicated soil-based standards for evaluating textile biodegradability represents a critical limitation in assessing the environmental performance of fibres. This study proposes a standardised and reproducible methodology to assess the biodegradability of textile materials under controlled terrestrial conditions. A 100% cotton fabric, used as a naturally biodegradable model substrate, was employed to systematically investigate the influence of key abiotic factors (pH, temperature, and moisture) on degradation dynamics. CO 2 evolution served as an indicator of microbial activity and mineralisation, while SEM and FTIR analyses characterised the structural and compositional transformations of residual fibres. Statistical analysis enabled the identification of optimal environmental conditions for biodegradation. The results showed that maximum mineralisation and CO 2 evolution were achieved at pH 7.5, 60 °C, and 60% moisture, indicating enhanced biodegradation efficiency. In contrast, acidic pH (6.0) and lower temperatures (25 °C) markedly limited degradation. This integrated approach establishes a soil-based framework for assessing textile biodegradability and provides new insight into the role of abiotic factors. It also supports the development of textile-specific standards to guide the sustainable end-of-life management and the design of biodegradable textiles. Graphical abstract