Behind the stage of contemporary Chinese tea culture: branding, soft power, service, and identity-making

This dissertation examines how contemporary Chinese tea culture took shape from the 1980s onward, during the shift from a planned economy to a market economy and renewed cross-Strait exchange. Based on multi-sited fieldwork from 2015 to 2019, followed by archival and online research, this dissertation follows the Tenren-Tenfu family enterprise, tea education, women tea practitioners, middle-class taste, and producing regions. It argues that widely recognizable forms of tea culture were built through family business, commercial and educational institutions, cross-Strait circulation, gendered service labor, heritage, and claims to production authority. Rather than treating the front stage as false and the backstage as real, the dissertation shows how commerce, knowledge, labor, and tradition became intertwined.

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Publication Details

Journal
Asian Anthropology
Published
2026-09-21
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1080/1683478x.2026.2727716
Primary Topic
Culinary Culture and Tourism
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
0.00
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article

Behind the stage of contemporary Chinese tea culture: branding, soft power, service, and identity-making

Junhong Ma
Asian Anthropology
Culinary Culture and Tourism
article

Behind the stage of contemporary Chinese tea culture: branding, soft power, service, and identity-making

Junhong Ma
article en

Abstract

This dissertation examines how contemporary Chinese tea culture took shape from the 1980s onward, during the shift from a planned economy to a market economy and renewed cross-Strait exchange. Based on multi-sited fieldwork from 2015 to 2019, followed by archival and online research, this dissertation follows the Tenren-Tenfu family enterprise, tea education, women tea practitioners, middle-class taste, and producing regions. It argues that widely recognizable forms of tea culture were built through family business, commercial and educational institutions, cross-Strait circulation, gendered service labor, heritage, and claims to production authority. Rather than treating the front stage as false and the backstage as real, the dissertation shows how commerce, knowledge, labor, and tradition became intertwined.

Asian Anthropology
Xiamen University (CN)
Openalex Percentile: Top 84%
Culinary Culture and Tourism
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