Wave Climate Dynamics of a Morphologically Complex Coast: A Hybrid Downscaling Study of Manzanillo, Mexico

A comprehensive characterization of the wave climate on the coast at Manzanillo, Colima, Mexico, based on an 11-year hindcast (2008–2018), was performed using a hybrid approach that integrates hydrodynamic numerical models with machine learning techniques. Wave conditions were analyzed at 23 nearshore sites, including headlands, outer beaches, and sheltered beaches. The effects of the complex coastal morphology on wave propagation were evident, especially regarding storm waves. Two distinct wave climates were seen: a low-energy regime in the dry season (November–April) and a more energetic regime in the rainy season (May–October). Spatial variability was greatly modulated by headlands, bays, and port infrastructure, leading to sharp local contrasts in wave height, slope, and wave power. For instance, mean wave power ranged from 9.34 kW/m at exposed sites such as El Faro de Campos to only 0.36 kW/m near sheltered areas, such as San Pedrito beach. From these findings, it is clear that a regional scale description of the wave climate is insufficient when assessing coastal vulnerability in this morphologically complex area. The new dataset is a valuable baseline for use in coastal management, port planning, and risk assessments for Manzanillo, which is one of Mexico’s most important ports.

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Publication Details

Journal
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
Published
2026-03-14
DOI
https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse14060544
Primary Topic
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
Type
article
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article

Wave Climate Dynamics of a Morphologically Complex Coast: A Hybrid Downscaling Study of Manzanillo, Mexico

Julieta Hernández-López, Marco Agustín Liñán-Cabello, Rodolfo Silva-Casarín, Héctor García-Nava et al.
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
article

Wave Climate Dynamics of a Morphologically Complex Coast: A Hybrid Downscaling Study of Manzanillo, Mexico

Julieta Hernández-López, Marco Agustín Liñán-Cabello, Rodolfo Silva-Casarín, Héctor García-Nava, Manuel Gerardo Verduzco-Zapata
article en

Abstract

A comprehensive characterization of the wave climate on the coast at Manzanillo, Colima, Mexico, based on an 11-year hindcast (2008–2018), was performed using a hybrid approach that integrates hydrodynamic numerical models with machine learning techniques. Wave conditions were analyzed at 23 nearshore sites, including headlands, outer beaches, and sheltered beaches. The effects of the complex coastal morphology on wave propagation were evident, especially regarding storm waves. Two distinct wave climates were seen: a low-energy regime in the dry season (November–April) and a more energetic regime in the rainy season (May–October). Spatial variability was greatly modulated by headlands, bays, and port infrastructure, leading to sharp local contrasts in wave height, slope, and wave power. For instance, mean wave power ranged from 9.34 kW/m at exposed sites such as El Faro de Campos to only 0.36 kW/m near sheltered areas, such as San Pedrito beach. From these findings, it is clear that a regional scale description of the wave climate is insufficient when assessing coastal vulnerability in this morphologically complex area. The new dataset is a valuable baseline for use in coastal management, port planning, and risk assessments for Manzanillo, which is one of Mexico’s most important ports.

Journal of Marine Science and EngineeringVol. 14(6)
Universidad Autónoma de la Ciudad de México (MX), Universidad Autónoma de Baja California (MX), Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (MX), Universidad de Colima (MX)
Climate action
Openalex Percentile: Top 19%
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
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