RUBIA TINCTORUM L. (KÖKBOYA) KULLANILARAK YAPILAN YÜNLÜ KUMAŞLARIN BASKISINDA FARKLI MORDANLARLA ÖN VE SON MORDANLAMANIN ETKİLERİ

This study examines the application of Rubia tinctorum L. (madder) as a natural dye in wool fabric printing, focusing on dyeing optimization and the effects of pre- and post-mordanting using various mordants. Wool fabrics were treated with iron(II) sulfate, alum, tannic acid, and tartaric acid before or after printing. For the printing process, the same mordants were used, with locust bean flour and gum arabic as thickeners. The impact of mordanting sequence (pre- vs. post-mordanting) on color yield and color fastness properties was analyzed to determine the optimal conditions for enhanced dye fixation and print quality. The results indicated that mordanting significantly enhanced color depth, with the highest color strength achieved through pre-mordanting with iron(II) sulfate. Natural mordants such as tannic and tartaric acids showed potential as effective alternatives to alum. Additionally, the color fastness to washing showed considerably high performance in terms of color change, although staining levels could be improved.