Nonlinear wave theory validated by field data for predicting wave-induced shear stress and turbidity under extreme events

• Field-validated nonlinear wave theories (3rd-order Stokes, cnoidal) for wave-induced bed shear stress. • In situ waves, currents and turbidity from four extreme events off Houwan, Taiwan (2015–2019) were analyzed. • Third-order Stokes predicted larger stresses and matched turbidity surges with minimal time lag. • Airy (linear) theory mis-timed and underestimated dynamic seabed stress during energetic waves. • Current-induced shear stress stayed low, indicating wave forcing dominates resuspension-driven turbidity. Coastal sediment transport is a dynamic process influenced by the continuous interplay of waves and currents. However, traditional models based on linear wave theory often fail to capture the full complexity of nearshore turbulence. In this study, we present the first field-based application of nonlinear wave theories—including third-order Stokes and cnoidal wave formulations—to quantify wave-induced shear stress and evaluate its impact on turbidity. Utilizing in situ measurements from four extreme hydrodynamic events—Typhoon Dujuan (2015), Extreme Cold Surge (2016), Prolonged Heavy Rainfall (2018), and Typhoon Wipha (2019)—off the coast of Houwan, Taiwan, we reveal a compelling pattern: third-order Stokes theory not only predicts higher magnitudes of shear stress but also exhibits remarkable temporal alignment with observed turbidity surges. In contrast, current-induced shear stress remains relatively low. These findings challenge the prevalent reliance on linear wave assumptions and establish a validated nonlinear modeling framework for coastal morphodynamics. By capturing the episodic chaos associated with storm-driven seas, this study provides critical insights for predicting sediment transport in light of intensifying climatic extremes.

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Publication Details

Journal
Applied Ocean Research
Published
2026-03-03
DOI
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.apor.2026.104996
Primary Topic
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
Type
article
Field-Weighted Citation Impact
0.00
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article

Nonlinear wave theory validated by field data for predicting wave-induced shear stress and turbidity under extreme events

Jia-Wei Bian, Ruo-Shan Tseng, Hung-Chu Hsu, Chih-Min Hsieh
Applied Ocean Research
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
article

Nonlinear wave theory validated by field data for predicting wave-induced shear stress and turbidity under extreme events

Jia-Wei Bian, Ruo-Shan Tseng, Hung-Chu Hsu, Chih-Min Hsieh
article en

Abstract

• Field-validated nonlinear wave theories (3rd-order Stokes, cnoidal) for wave-induced bed shear stress. • In situ waves, currents and turbidity from four extreme events off Houwan, Taiwan (2015–2019) were analyzed. • Third-order Stokes predicted larger stresses and matched turbidity surges with minimal time lag. • Airy (linear) theory mis-timed and underestimated dynamic seabed stress during energetic waves. • Current-induced shear stress stayed low, indicating wave forcing dominates resuspension-driven turbidity. Coastal sediment transport is a dynamic process influenced by the continuous interplay of waves and currents. However, traditional models based on linear wave theory often fail to capture the full complexity of nearshore turbulence. In this study, we present the first field-based application of nonlinear wave theories—including third-order Stokes and cnoidal wave formulations—to quantify wave-induced shear stress and evaluate its impact on turbidity. Utilizing in situ measurements from four extreme hydrodynamic events—Typhoon Dujuan (2015), Extreme Cold Surge (2016), Prolonged Heavy Rainfall (2018), and Typhoon Wipha (2019)—off the coast of Houwan, Taiwan, we reveal a compelling pattern: third-order Stokes theory not only predicts higher magnitudes of shear stress but also exhibits remarkable temporal alignment with observed turbidity surges. In contrast, current-induced shear stress remains relatively low. These findings challenge the prevalent reliance on linear wave assumptions and establish a validated nonlinear modeling framework for coastal morphodynamics. By capturing the episodic chaos associated with storm-driven seas, this study provides critical insights for predicting sediment transport in light of intensifying climatic extremes.

Applied Ocean ResearchVol. 169
University of Science and Technology (YE), National Sun Yat-sen University (TW), National Kaohsiung Marine University (TW), National Kaohsiung University of Science and Technology (TW)
Climate action
Openalex Percentile: Top 45%
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
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